Thanks for the suggestion Pat, any recommendations as to slave/master cylinders, or other parts needed?
am aftermarket master cylinder like a mcleod or tick is going to cost you $300+, and imo is unnecessary for what you’re doing. keep it simple. buy a clutch that doesn’t require a new flywheel and comes with a slave. (like a spec). maybe do the drill mod (i have yet to do this), resurface your flywheel ($40-$50) install clutch and flush/bleed the system. lower stage clutches are all easy to drive, i wouldn’t worry about that.
I ran a spec 3 for years on the updated 2001 hydraulics with a stock flywheel resurfaced. It drove nice not stock nice but still not a chore. I would buy it again.
Gotcha… any recommendations on sites that actually include the slave cylinder? I have not been able to find one yet…
every spec clutch i’ve bought came with one
specs just come with a throwout bearing, not the whole slave.
I had a old style 00 slave when I changed my clutch. At ~60k so I put a new ram one in when I was putting my clutch in to be safe. But it was easy to just go over to the shelf and grab one. Same with the flex plate, I was easier to just put a new ram billet on, while I was on the lift one night at the shop. It’s a nice piece and SFI approved. I’m glad I have it now, my rev limiter is gona be 7,200-7,500 this year with the 2step. I fell safer with that, and I’ve been asked at NHRA/NMCA techs, about it. I think its with slicks on a stick car you have to have a SFI flywheel to be legal, they even want some model/ID numbers of that stuff at be events.
But your probably be fine with a good stock one for what you want to do. I’ve never heard about one exploding, just PP springs popping out, and tearing up bellhouseing. Today at newera I saw another Fbody one in the scrap alum bin. thats the 3rd in the last 3 years now.
are you high? they do not come with slave cylinders. they come with throwout bearings clown…:picard:
:picard:
i have a headache, don’t mind me :lol:
i’ll drive it…
Yeah last step, recommended hydraulics? Time to go shopping 
Mcleod street twin if you’re making some decent power. Else the Mcleod single disk.
Power output wont be much more than full exhaust/headers/tune can get me, my goals are not very large.
I’d say a stock clutch would be fine for you however a Mcleod single disk would be a nice upgrade for around the same price as a stock clutch. I had a ram powergrip and it gripped too hard for me. Annoying in city traffic. Probably great for the track.
I have a new zo6 master drill mod/ updated slave with a spec 3+ and fidenza aluminum flywheel and I love the step up. The lower weight rotating assembly revs much faster then stock.
It only chatters once in a while going slow slipping the clutch uphill. Pedal feel is almost stock. (My mother has driven it and hasn’t complained about it being stiff.)
http://www.monsterclutches.com/
These are supposed to be very good. They are also relatively cheap. They come with everything: flywheel, disc, pressure plate, alignment tool, throwout bearing, pilot bearing. You have your choice of billet steel or chromoly flywheels. (28 lbs. vs 15 lbs.) You can also get it with or without a new slave cylinder. I was going to put one in my car but i am selling so there is no need.
ive had excellent results with clutchnet but i havent used one in an LsX setup…
Just buy an LS7 Clutch / LS2 Flywheel from Scoggins Dickey thats what I did and what I have in my car.
I tried the Ram Studderin has in his car and its just way to difficult to push down and probably way to much of a PITA to drive on the street. It’s not worth it to go all out if you don’t ever plan to cam the car or go beyond just a few simple bolt ons.
SPEC Stage 3 - easy to drive and great holding power
This is what im going with, i also drove 2 cars with this clutch, its a harder pedal then stock but easy to drive. Just waiting on parts, will be in this weekend, cant wait to drive my car again!