UPDATE: Car finished today, Spec 3 Clutch Kit installed with upgrade to 98-02 slave cylinder.
I will be honest, I didnt expect the pedal to be this stiff, but its growing on me. So much that I cant even manage to get my foot off the floor in the Jetta :lol:
The 1st + 2nd gear chatter is a little different to me but Jason told me that will go away in time… Engagement isn’t smooth yet, I assume that’ll break in as well
But I am going through the break-in process, ~500 long miles. 50 down.
I am going to have to replace my clutch in the near future, starting to get very stiff and choppy in gears.
I have read into many different applications and have narrowed my selections down… Driveability is a big factor for me, and I do not want to hate driving my car in stop and go situations. However, I will bring this to the track from time to time, so something strong and durable is ideal.
One thing I have not decided on is type of flywheel…
If anyone has suggestions feel free to chime them in to me, and if anyone is running a setup using one of my choices, let me know how it is!
^True, however I do not want to run a stock clutch at the track, which is why I am considering an LS7 clutch kit. Would that be compatible with my stock flywheel?
I have one, drives great, my friend has one on his Z28 with full exhaust, drives like stock, red00ws6 is about to have one in a couple days. I wouldnt go with another factory GM clutch. I have heard good things about both Ram and Centerforce, especially centerforce from Mustang people. I as well as probably 10 of my friends i can think of off the top of my head use Spec clutches and have never had a bad experience.
Depends on the shape of the flywheel, how bad is the clutch? My friends was slipping pretty bad, there were so many heat spots on his flywheel it looked like leopard print. A lot of people upgrade to the newer slave cyl. My car has a McLeod adjustable master.
The clutch is not horrible, but if I raced on it this summer it would probably give out. Engages fine and strong, but is very stiff and the gears are sometimes choppy.
I would rather replace than drive this one down to the bone.
Stock tires, or a not crazy DR (a 25.5/26x8 size, 245 nitto555R. no 28+ MT/Hoosier DR):
The LS7 will hold up on mild tires for good miles, to a non suck driver. And be the most “stock” like driving. Just remember on your car setup mild bolt ons. Probably low power 325-340whp. And a taller street gear, Its gona be easy to bog the motor even with street tires. So if you get good at launching the car, into 1.8s 1.7s like I was. Your going to do a 3500-4K maybe launch rpm. And kinda ride the clutch to keep the rpms over 3500 for 1-2 secs in 1st gear. With a GM clutch they don’t take the heat well. So make sure you let the car sit 45mins-1hr after doing that. if you hot lap going that the GM clutchs will glaze easy. A aftermarket clutch will take heat better, without permit damage. Not sure best price probably SDPC, is the best. But remeber you have to run the LS7 PP with it. Ive installed a few of them, there good easy install, no specialty setup like aftermarkets. Just tap the dowel pins in the PP all the way into the blind holes, thats a intsall help, and a must in a c5/c6 bellhousing. I think shockway on here has one, I might have installed it?
Normal Power grip is also a great clutch, stiffer pedal then a LS7 so has more static holding power. Will take heat better, take more abuse. And still very drivable you can slip it. And drive it, not as a switch. Its shouldn’t chatter with stock 3:42 gears, unless you have 4 people in the car and a ton of weight (4500+). Gears will help a alot for chatter. But unless you have a auto swap car with 2:93 gears it shouldn’t chatter at all. Its the same powergrip HD plate, but one side is milder grabbing material. Depending what you think, the pedal will be the man thing that clutch that will bother you. See if you can drive one in a car. I know chris, 95z on here has the same PG HD I run, and it happy with it. he is in buffalo. If its to much look at a HDX for a easier pedal.
I’ve never installed, or drivin a centerforce 4th gen that I’m aware of. Or did anything with the car to comment on it. But I think a dual disc, (alto marketed as "ultimate street clutch) is a waste of money for what you have and need for a clutch.
Just make sure you do a good hydraulic setup with whatever. Drill mod, and a Adjustable master is a must. Even just the modded stock, thats all I run. Pm me if you need any install help, or pricing. Mike stocks all the ram stuff at new era, and open to local discounts on picked up parts.
Ya, the day I tried to shift fast (I learned on this car). And learned how to DRIVE my car The stock clutch wasn’t up to it at all. And that was with the drill mod, adj master, bled with good fluid. The pedal side was fine, it had lots of meat at 59K but would slip after 2 gears. The stock hydraulics I think GM designed them (the
“drill mod” restriction in the line) as a limit over how much abuse the clutch will see in a stock car so.
If you car is starting to shift hard. DON’T push it and get the hydraulics up to par. You will damage the trans, $$$$
I can’t vote. It really depends on what you can drive for aggressiveness . I know your going to mod the car a little more. But for me I’d put a good clutch in the car now. Its not a big difference in price for what you can get.
I put a power grip HD when I had a lid/freemods. And just got the Z, but driven alot of cars on test drives with stiffer clutch. My leg only bothered me for like 2 days, but I was driving the car all day.
Thanks for the input Studderin… I will definitely be in touch with you.
I am indifferent to pedal stiffness, I would rather not go super stiff if I don’t have to.
I would rather go with an aftermarket clutch that can take the beating, but I am pretty unfamiliar with hydraulic setups. I like the 3.42 gears and will keep it there.
Yeah you don’t need anything too aggressive for your planned mods. I had a centerforce dual friction in the car when i bought it. It held fine and the pedal was nice, but it gave out due to previous owners lack of driving skill. I put Turbo’s used spec 3 in after that, which I loved, i simply started having slip issues under heavy load. Tried Chucks 4+ and it welded to the flywheel courtesy of some wheel hop and a bad slave cylinder. I now have a Spec 4 and it’s not too bad. Def make sure your hydraulics are up to par as Studderin said or it will cause a bunch of problems.
