So, as most know, I’m using my Z as a template to build a brand new car :bloated:
Anywho, when ever I replace metal on non-structural body panels, I usualy get less than a dozen pin holes left over aver grinding,smoothing, and polishing the metal.
Now, before anyone says “Well if you welded it right, there shouldnt be any pinholes!” Yes and no. I rarely run beads on sheet metal. I tack in decreasing intervals from opposite ends, then close the gaps.
So, after griding, there’s usualy a few pin holes left over. I’ve gone over them before with more welds, but there has to be something pratical used by body pros that can fill these not structual body panel pin holes that prevent any penetration of oxidation. Bondo is not one of them. Can I use something like, JB weld and still not half ass the job? Any suggestions?
if they are on body panels then u are gonna have to put some kind of body work over those areas, so why not just fill it with fiberglass or some icing?
I don’t like the idea of Bondo for a multitude of reasons. First and for most, the purpose of bodo has been severely molested over time. It’s intended to smooth body lines in very thin applications over a solid surface. It’s not a metal/body subsitute. What I’m afraid of happening is moisture penetrating bondo (which is highly porus) where there’s a phycial hole in the metal, trap it, and increasing the chances of rust ten-fold.
Fiberglass may be an option. If I can find lead stock to work with, then that is an excellent option. Otherwise, after reading up on POR15, that seems next to best.
I’m just talking from what I know through my brother who is a professional body guy and has been for 20+ years.
If you’re looking for something structural, then fiberglass or lead (and even lead isn’t really structural); if it’s not structural and is for smoothing for finish purposes, then prime the raw metal, and skimcoat the bondo.
I’m slightly confused on the application that you’re looking for though… I’ve never had to myself, nor seem my brother use anything except welding panels in, grinding them smooth, then prime and skimcoat.
I’ve only seen him do it slightly differently once, and that was when he chopped a early 40’s pickup roof 4"+ and used lead to fill in some areas instead of weld. But even then it was prime and skimcoat.
Hell, go talk to him, Scott over at Emerson Collision in Greece…
POR 15 makes a putty like substance that is pretty bad ass
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It’s their seam sealer. I have some of this and it’s great for areas that won’t get seen - but the package tells you “not for areas where aesthetics is a concern.” Hard to work with once it sets up.
97Forumula, I’ve been doing this for all but, oh, a year So believe me, input/suggestion/experiences are appreciated. As always, I ask my self all the how’s and why’s of everything.
TrueBlue, you can barely fit a needle through any of them, if at all. They’re tiny, but, if I’m at the point I should be doing something with them, I want to be. Being that rust is what caused this car to be a disaster, rust preventatives is a major concern
this is a job for bondo…bondos purpose is skim coats and filler…tiny pinholes are precisely an ideal job for it…its not like your rebuilding a qtr panel with bondo
Nope, totally know where you’re at. I get the “while-I’m-at-its” a lot too. In this case, plastic filler would be the proper tool for the job. :tup:
You can use POR’s “Metal Ready” zinc coater and a thinned coat of the rust preventative if you want to protect the bare metal, but I think the primer will be enough.
So believe me, input/suggestion/experiences are appreciated. As always, I ask my self all the how’s and why’s of everything.