check this thread out http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB21&Number=67364945&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
i havent noticed too much binding but that may be because my car isnt lowered. What about you lowered guys have you noticed this? im planning to lower my car soon and i dont want to risk damaging my lca’s. is the only way to be safe by upgraded to some spherical tc rods?
My car is lowerd about 4" and I have whiteline swaybars so far so good…
no its not the sway bars its the tc rod that cracks the lca because there is less give in the whiteline bushing
So get stronger control arms with camber adjustability and kill two birds with one stone. This is all part of building up a car, things need to be modified and changed in order to handle the other modifications that you make (eg. stiff suspension requires greater chassis bracing). It’s all part of the game.
how is it a poor design? it works well with a non lowered car(which it was obviously designed for) it just isnt for lowered cars, so it isnt a bad design, just one that wont in modified cars
No, it’s a poor design of the TC bushing… He shouldn’t need to build up supporting structures becauase he put in a poly bushing…
Explain how a pillowball TC rod which is deemed more race oriented does not have the same problem even though it’s a better part?[/quote]
Last I checked the 240sx doesn’t come with pillowball or hyme bushings, so installing them would be a modification now wouldn’t it?
I’m not sure how well it might apply to a lowered car, but I know that when the 4x4 guys lift vehicles, they move the tie rods up by either raising the brackets or using spacers. I wonder how feasible it would be to lower the pivot point of the tie rods using the same theories in reverse, to prevent binding of the steering linkages.
i would say they are poorly designed. the bushings are made by whiteline who also makes a set of lowering springs as well as height adjustable coil overs, so why would you make a product that doesnt work properly with your other products? thats just stupid.
As far as I know, this was mainly an S14 thing, however I could be wrong.
I haven’t looked too much into it so don’t take my word for it.
One option is, if you have a welder, you can box the control arm (weld a
plate in the open part), however, control arms are made the way they are
because in case of an accident, these arms will bend/break thus taking
absorbing away some of the energy.
Honestly, I wouldn’t worry too much about this. Worst case scenario: the
arms break and you replace them.