The flywheel sat in my car in a black plastic bag all day while I was at work.
I took the flywheel out of the bag and brought it in the house but I didn’t
wipe off any moisture from the top. So it oxidized a bit. I just rubbed
most of it off. Perhaps I should use some kinda solvent to clean it up more?
Anywho, my concern is this. If you notice, there is al ine between the
contact surface and the outside surface. Basically it’s a slight step.
However, there is a slight difference in the step near. Like if you put your
finger on the line and go around, you can feel it get flatter near some point.
Basically there is very slight unevenness. Is this ok? Or should I have
the shop redo it? I dunno if I’ll get it back by weekend if I do.
i had my flywheel resurfaced recently and it was all perfectly smooth. I think you should have them redo it so its all one even surface.
Mine oxidized a little too because of moisture, i just used some fine sand paper and it all came off.
They only resurfaced the contact area because they didn’t want to pull the dowels (ones that align your PP).
The uneveness in the step is most likely caused by the entire flywheel being slightly warped. Hence when they through it on the lathe, the cut surface is not parallel with the unmachined surface.
Dude, why do you even bother with specialty shops? Brampton has tons of machine shops floating about.
Just take it to any non-automotive shop with a lathe that can turn something of that diameter. Mounting it in a standard chuck may be tricky, but most places are clever enough to figure it out. They’ll make a few passes for you for half a case of beer.
Resurfacing something like this requires less then half a brain.
I didn’t take it to a specialty. I just called up Napa and they gave me the
to this place. I mean, same risk involved with taking it anywhere else.
I’m gonna take it back and see if they can do it again. I’ll just bitch and
complain. If it’s still a no-go after tomorrow, then fuck it, I’ll just do
something else. My car is off insurance for a while so it doesn’t really
matter much now. Last few weeks haven’t been good to me.
the cut is fine, im concerned about the uneven surface also, the only problem u will have is the uneven surface, if u get too smooth of a surface u will have break in problems, u will glaze the clutch plate surface if the cut on the flywheel is too fine,
G that’s not how a properly machined flywheel should look. There should be NO high or low spots in it what so ever. It’s supposed to be level right across.
It’s liked I said before, you should have it shaved not just machined. So phone the place back, tell them your not happy with the job and have them shave it level. Your not so much taking out weight as just making the flywheel have the proper surface for the clutch disc to mate to.
Also as long as you go somwwhere between 1000-2000 KM’s for break in, glazing won’t happen. Don’t shift above 4k rpm’s, don’t be hard on it up to 4k rpm, don’t down shift to slow the car down at all, just use the breaks and make sure your shifts are smooth and percise.
Hold on here everyone. That may not be the best resurface job in the world but I highly doubt there is anything wrong with it. This STEP you are talking about, is it an actual STEP or do you just feel a LIP because the direction of cutting changed? Making two passes like they did is not the best, but I bet if you put the friction disk on there it doesn’t come close to the step and hence MAKES NO DIFFERENCE. Whoever said that they are machined on a lathe is wrong, they are machined on a milling machine with a flycutter and a rotating table. Some places surface grind them also I believe, but not sure. Adam’s flywheel was done the same way, just with a different cutter and speed as he says. If yours is smooth to the touch then don’t worry about what it looks like, however, if the cutter has left swirl marks that can be felt that is not right.
Again, if there is an actual STEP between the two passes (inner cut and outer cut) then that is not right. If it is all at the same level then clean it up with some brake clean (after you put it on because you will get finger prints all over it) and get it all back together, done. Absolutely nothing wrong with resurfacing a flywheel, what do you think happens when they make it?
Coles: Stepping is bad if the friction disk crosses the step, looking like it was machined is ok. Rust can be cleaned. I bet the friction disk doesn’t go past the step anyway. Get er together. Done.
When I had mine resurfaced, it looked like the pic “shift_sr20det” posted. All even and shinny smooth. Also has a blue protective layer on it to prevent oxidization. Sat for a month before installation and no rust whatsoever.
I say get it redone without “stepping”. Should be even and smooth throughout.
This morning I took it back to the shop. Told them to feel the step and the
guy did and said himself “Hrm, that’s no good”.
So I left it to them to redo it. I didn’t mention step or not but either ways,
as long as the surface is even all around , I don’t really care much if it had
a step or not.
How much of a step was there? If they didn’t match that is grim. It would work just fine if the FD never crossed it (I measured one for you, 9" outside dia but no point now), the only thing that would be screwed up a bit would be the pedal height, assuming it wasn’t a huge step. Anway, if they acknowledged it had a step will be solved.
My dad was telling me the difference was too obvious and noticable (he’s
a machinist so he knows his shit - and no he is temporarily out of his job
that’s why I didn’t get him to machine it).
Dad said the height at one point is probablly 5-thousandths whereas on
the other side it was practically smooth and not noticable.
Whatever the case, I get it back tonight so I’ll find out about it.
So not even a step but an uneven one at that… yeah, that’s not too great. Must have had an apprentice on the controls… Post some pics of it when you get it back, I am interested to see how it compares.
