Got the tib on the dyno finally

I beat the car is struggling to keep oil on the cylinder walls to lubricate the rings also. Fuel cooling? Doesn’t matter what you call it 10.9 is way too rich

People have come to NYSpeed to get away from the drama and misinformation that plague other forums. Let’s keep it that way. This isn’t the first time you’ve tried to play tuner. Stick to what you know.

Many factory turbo cars such as DSMs, Subarus, etc. come from the factory running 10.0:1 or richer under boost and there are no issues with ring failure, or any engine failure due to this. They usually run past 150k miles and even 200k miles unless the car isn’t maintained properly or is modded or tuned improperly. Bryan’s car is a full point leaner than that and as I said it didn’t make any more power when leaned out further in that RPM range. I take it you would lean it out anyways… All you’d be doing is increasing engine temperatures, reducing bearing life, and decereasing reliability.

-Mike

good numbers and progress, keep us updated!

very nice man…when can we expect to see you @ the track?

Hey Mike no drama here, but you should agree that 10.9 is very rich no matter how you look at it. That really ISN’T MISINFORMATION. I seriously don’t know who you think you are saying, “first time you’ve tried to play tuner.” Last time I checked I DIDN’T blow up anyones car. You however can’t say the same thing. If you don’t like that last remark don’t start stupid shit with me in the future. As a professional you SHOULD KNOW that 10.9 is rich. That is all I was saying and if you need fuel to cool the intake charge you need to consider less boost or a better charge cooler

i just ran into this guy at pep oys, car seems pretty cool. im surprised his GF puts up with this shit…

My buddy jeff saw the tib at taffys tonight before i got there, he gives it the thumbs up. I guess there were some teen kids taking smack till they saw it take off.

Nice work! I’m sure you’ll squeeze 300 hp out of it with Mike’s help.

X…

RobHimself wrote:

My buddy jeff

:wave:

Yeah, they were making fun of the body work until they heard you get on the throttle a little. Then they just kind of looked confused. It was some high school soccer team from Maine. They didn’t seem so smart.

:tup:

:tup:

yea, thats the plan…

the plan is 400… i just gotta get an egt guage to know where to stop with teh boost

yea so am i… but than again i bought her stuff for her tib when she had it… and im sure ill end up getting her something for her is300

10.9 is rich but not enough to worry about washing the cylinder walls down and have to worry about premature ring failure. On a boosted car above 20psi, middle 11:X is where I would want to be for A/F to ensure I wasn’t detonating even if it was slightly on the rich side.

guessin any track times

and whats the weight?

Just a question. People who take a NA car and make it boosted do you montior Knock or just use EGT and AF to determine timming, boost levels ect? With my gtp even if my AF looks great I could still have knock issues, now I dont have a EGT gauge and am not firmiliar on where you would want your egt temps at.

:tup: projects getting done.

This is why an accurate EGT gauge with proper probe placement is so key. Under full load you generally don’t want to see over 1600 F as measured 1-2" from the hottest cylinder’s exhaust port. Under different conditions 1600 would be too much, so this isn’t a hard a fast rule. For instance, if you were cruising on the highway and seeing EGTs nearing 1600, you have a serious problem.

-Mike

:tup: for hyundai, I’ll be about 200hp below you

Yup, my setup runs high 9’s towards redline, and 10’s after 5300rpm. Been doing that for about 20,000km’s and no problems (knock on wood). :beer: