Performance wise what’s the difference after all is said and done?
The real question is what do you want? If you want an h22 do you feel like pissing with all the little extras to get it in the car? If not then buy the B. Its all about your opinion and even after your done deciding your gonna find yourself not satisfied and wanting more power so regardless what it comes down to is what you want. If you want a daily driver I would say go B cause if it breaks and you want it back on the road its easier to source things locally. Steve (Hycomp) is old and has been around forever and knows what he’s talkin about. In the end when you wanna make power it doesn’t matter what you have it all cost $$$ so I would go with convenience.
just curious. why not turbo the d? No swap involved. And because they are the bastard child of the honda engines they can be had cheap. I understand the power ceiling may be lower, but how much power are you looking for?
I understand what your saying. You have to also consider where the motor gets placed if your getting that picky.
even k20:
The H’s & K’s lean back tward the firewall and the B’s sit forward. I’d have to see swapped cars on scales to really fortify an argument though. Even then, like Jlude said the H is making more power across the board. Pull the a/c compressor and put the battery in the truck and you’ve more than compinsated for the H’s weight.
Getting the engine in the car is relativly the same as a B, depending on which mount kit you choose. Some bolt in using the factory mounting positions, but HASport for example uses the front pass. torque mount for the trans mount, so you have to cut the frame rail trans mount off. If you do an EK, you dont even have to do that.
Wiring is the same, you add your vtec wires and any additional wires depending on what ECU u want to use.
Shifter would be next. U have to cut the floor opening to sink the prelude/accord shifter into the tunnel. Make a tin box or whatever and seal it up. Run the cables to the trans and your done.
Axles are fairly straight forward. If you have no intermediate shaft, you can buy an accord one and use all accord axles. If you have a prelude, you can use a prelude drivers and an accord pass. I’ve used all sorts of axle combinations depending on the chassis, the mount kit, etc.
Thats about all of the major stuff. Its definitly more work than a B, but all in all if your capable of swapping a B, you can certainly swap an H.
well i’m still up in the air about everything - i might turbo the d
buuttt this is my daily driver and how reliable would that be?
also i don’t know much at all about tuning
and third of all - it owuld have to pass inspection legally and i guess i would be able to swap out ecu’s, put stock exhaust manifold back on, and put stock injectors back in and have it pass like that
but most of all its the reliablity factor as to why im goin with a swap as opposed to turboing the d
there was one D on here thats been boosted for 2 years…in time it poped a head gasket. (like a year) and just threw a set of arps on it and now its for sale…
showtime, old dirty georg and I did his h22 swap… in his driveway with hand tools!
As far as emissions goes, any of those motors should pass flawlessly. I have an easy 15-20 H22/P28 tunes I jump around from, some of which I had one old customer of my pass with no converter. Its all about the tuning. So, if you are worried about being able to tune it, any setup is tuneable with the right person to be a great DD and pass emissions.
well how much would u charge to do the swap gearhead. If i had a complete swap and the mounts and i brought u my car with my engine still in it around how much would it be?
I skimmed over the thread just to see what everyone was saying…i don’t know jack shit about hondas…and don’t really want to…but how deep are your pockets? I figured joe would say he turbo’d a few DD’s…but honestly how much life does that cut off of the car? If you turbo your dd and something goes wrong how screwed will you be? Can you afford to get another beater(or do you already have one)to drive while the DD is under the wrench? Yes there are some turbo dd’s that are pretty reliable…but there is always that chance that something will get toasted. Oh…and how many tickets are you going to get after the dd is turbo’d? lol
That turbo kit is just cheap knock off stuff, nothing more. Some people run them with no problem, some have nothing but problems. I’d stay away from them, even though i’ve used a lot of those parts on customer carry in jobs.
You don’t personally need to know anything about tuning if you want to run a turbo, you can get it tuned just like you can get any other setup tuned. If it’s a good tune you shouldn’t have to touch it unless something breaks.
IMO, a turbo D is probably the cheapest route to some power. I have an H22 and I like them but it just depends on what your goals are and what you want to spend. The B or the H is not going to be a huge price differential, and there are advantages or disadvantages to both, as you’ve seen in this thread.
I think you should find someone with the motor(s) you are considering and drive their car. When you can’t find someone that will let you do that, find someone who will give you a ride in the car so you can get an idea. I’d ride with an H22 last since you will want it.
since money might be a factor…im thinkin maybe i’ll turbo it this summer and keep it turboed until it starts having problems then at that point i’ll have enough money saved up to go ahead and do a swap
heres a stupid question probably
say i put everything on my car - turbo wise…then i want to get it tuned.
would i have to trailer my car from my house to wherever i’d be getting it tuned…and i am confused when people say chipped and tuned ecu…would i have to find an ecu that was already chipped and then take it somewhere to get tuned…like i said im very confused on the whole ecu being tuned deal
also if i had dsm 450 injectors running about 10 psi…would i need to get a high flow fuel pump? also wahts a resistor box and would i need one of those?
sorry for all the questions but its better to ask than to act like i know what im talking about
Cars that need tuned usually run like shit…so with that in mind i think you would want it trailered wherever so that all the kinks and what not could be worked out.
so regardless what it comes down to is what you want. If you want a daily driver I would say go B cause if it breaks and you want it back on the road its easier to source things locally. Steve (Hycomp) is old and has been around forever and knows what he’s talkin about. In the end when you wanna make power it doesn’t matter what you have it all cost $$$ so I would go with convenience.