dsm 390’s or 450’s work fine, a resistor box out of a 90-93 accord works great. a 255 fuel pump to be on the safe side for 100bucks…I ran a stock CX pump to 270whp and started to run out of fuel.
then get is trailered to hybrid or a tuner of your chioce…and he will take care of the rest.
The biggest problem with a turbo car is everyone always wants more. so you get gready and keep turning the boost up to an unreasonable amount.
If i where you i would get something like 14b or a 50 trim 16g whatever and go boost. a list would be
turbo…perferable with a stock wastegate to keep the cost down.
manifold (stock CX manifold with adapter plate or something similar)
dsm injectors
downpipe. (custom)
Intercooler/ic pipe
BOV stock 1g dsm work great
oil lines fittings (about $100)
EGT gauge
boost guage is optional you really dont need one…
usdm chipped P28
conversion harness to obd1
and possibly a clutch shorty after.
Also dont
it will pass emissions with a “No connect”
If you want to go faster then that. the ls swap then adding a turbo later is the cheapest/fastest thing you can do in a civic. (yes even faster then all your h22’s!!!
almost twice?! I didn’t think it was that much…but hey at least it would be that instead of a horribly lean condition which would get real bad real fast.
A pretty common method of tuning is to get an ECU (your car’s computer) “socketed” which lets you insert or remove chips without soldering (which is how chips are usually attached to a circuit board). In this way you can have your tuner “burn” (program) a custom chip that has a proper fuel map etc. for your car to run the way you want it to run given the modifications that you’ve made. You can get a “street tune” using a wideband O2 which is kind of a “seat of the pants” thing that can at least keep your car from running lean and is going to be better than a stock tune in most cases. The best option would be to get tuned with a dyno so you can see your power curve and know exactly what the tuning changes are doing for you. Dyno tuning is of course going to be more expensive.
Do NOT let anyone sell you a pre-burnt chip no matter what they tell you it’s going to do, all the “SPOON JDM +20HP!!!” chips on ebay are for total shit and just a waste of money.
I would listen to Joe regarding the parts list, and whoever builds your motor should be able to help you out some there too as hopefully you will be at a reputable shop that has experience.
keep in mind…that tq is more used in daily driving.
so if you want a quick daily…there is a huge jump in tq from a B to an H.
your not going to be getting peak HP unless your revving it up to redline every shift.
Tq is much more noticeable/usable in “daily driving”
& IMO…i would not want a turboed daily unless it was an engine that was factory turboed…if its your only car.
if you got a backup then go for it…if not keep in mind what you’re gonna do when its starts to act up or give you problems…especially since you don’t seem to have the knowhow to get in there & fix it.
i’m not knockin you but i’m just saying…its a lot easier for jay or joe to rock something as a daily thats temperamental cause they can get in it & fix whatever.
ok i made up my mind but i still have some questions…
i’m gonna find a 14b and piece together somethin
14b
450cc injectors
ebay intercooler and intercooler piping kit
im gonna get a virgin ecu somewhere and then get it chipped an tuned at hybrid
bov off ebay
downpipe i’ll find somewhere
jumper harness somewhere
now heres my question
Will i need a wally 255?
when i need to take my car to get inspected i’m going to take the turbo off, put my stock manifold on, stock injectors, swap out ecu
if i have a wally 255 with my stock ecu and stock injectors what will happen?
Okay, first off let me preface this post by saying [list=a]- I know next to nothing about Honda swaps- I only read about the first 6 posts before I got bored and decided to reply to the OP[/list]
So, that being said and with full understanding that I have absolutely no place giving any input in this thread, in true Pittspeed fashion I’ll throw my $0.02 in.
To the OP: You have a ’99 Civic Daily Driver. You want it to be more fun to drive, yet still reliable and economical as your DD. Fair enough, nothing wrong with that. However, you state that you want to take it to “the strip” occasionally. I think this is where you went all wrong. Hondas are not for drag racing. Now, I am absolutely NOT saying they can’t be made fast (look at fmfkid etc) because they certainly can. But you are fighting an up-hill battle with wrong wheel drive, small engines etc. Some folks enjoy the challenge, or just enjoy Hondas more than other cars so they choose them as their drag platform. But even if you want to drag a Honda you’re using the wrong Honda platform.
I understand you didn’t say you needed to run 11s (far from it) or be the fastest kid on the block, that’s good. You just want to have fun “racing” your car, also good. But I would suggest you drop the drag-strip idea and look at AutoX and/or track days. AutoX is an extremely cheap form of motorsports, and one that your car is much better suited to than drag racing. A ’99 Civic isn’t the end-all-be-all of AutoX either, but it’s a helluva lot closer than it would be in the drag racing world. Unless your current D16 is ailing, why not spend your money on good springs/shocks (or coilovers), fresh upgraded bushings, brake upgrades and all the little Honda specific handling stuff that ppl like Habib can fill you in on? Better yet, build it to the limit of STS rules (though, the ’89-91 Si is the car to have for STS, I imagine you could still build a car that’s more capable than you will be as a driver for a few years out of a ’99 Civic).