When i talked to him today, he pretty much had his mind made up
:gotme:
k24 + type S head cheaper than straight k20a swap :shrug:
i’d trust scott’s opinion, he’s been in civic land forever
Could buy my swap…
B-series
but really if he can afford it there’s only one way to go
K20A holla
there’s no way in hell a k20 is worth it compared to a B18 with a few bolt ons from what i can tell. someone please tell me what makes the k20 so great to justify the price difference other than the honda baller status of a type-r in your tight car.
k-series are the future. much more power potential.
can you explain why? i really know nothing about hondas and i am very interested.
edit: thanks.
OH shut up
K20 w/ basic tune & header…THATS IT…220 whp EASY
ITR B18…tuned, with intake, header exhuast…maybe 180-185
that’s the quick version
the minimal amount of reading i’ve done about it makes them sound extremely comparable. that’s why i asked.
to get a b-series to 220 wheel NA would take a pretty serious build, and by that point youve sacrificed reliability.
Listen to the man who ran both in the same car…
Oh, and Julie is right about the motor being not very important in auto-x. Just ask most of the SM guys who is running faster RAW times this year: a stock-class Miata with 106whp or the myriad of Civics with various swaps, forced induction, etc.
Locally, it really doesn’t matter all that much what motor you run. Spend your money on some quality suspension components, and wide wheels with the stickiest, widest tires you can get (either Hoosiers of Kumho V710s) and you go ALOT faster. (After you dial it all in of course)
Food for thought: The two fastest SM Civics at Divisionals (and Devens National Tour) are running totally different setups: One is a D-series in an EF hatch, the other is a B18C5 in an EG. Both are running higher-end suspension setups, and wide wheels. You need to keep in mind the entire package, and not just the individual parts. Sure, you want the widest wheels of the smallest diameter you can fit over your brakes, but don’t sacrifice stopping power to run smaller wheels. Also keep in mind that the more power you have, the more a larger diameter wheel/tire helps put it to the ground. The nationally-competitive cars I saw were running 15s.
why the fuck would you spend the money for a c5 and boost it…?
for auto cross in a 2300lbs car do you really want more than 230fwhp ( I really don’t know on this one, what a good amount for HP is for auto cross, i’m curious i think i’ll have an autocross car next year)
you wouldnt want to overpower an auto-x car, especially a fwd one.
personally, id say for the money a simple na b-series would be the best choice for auto x, or a k series if you wanted to spend the cash.
for drag racing, turbo b or k series, or k series only if you wanted to go na.
beck, you’re retarded. how high something revs is unimportant, what is important is that the trans is gear properly for the engines power band.
you should stop making posts in this thread now.
joes right
a stock k20a is a better choice than a either engine with a ass load of money dumped into them. to make the same power as a k20a with either of those setups you would end up at the same dollar amount in the end (give or take a little). the only difference is that the k20 still has room to make more power.
GSR block with a B16 head is a good combo
I’ve not read much of this, but I will say this. The H22 is a phenomenal motor. It’s got gobs of torque, and the tranny ratios are quite short, which is nice, because there’s always power there. And while they are not boost friendly with stock internals with the FRM walls, who cares? I thought this was for auto-cross?
The B18 and K20 are also absurdly amazing, but also very different. They certainly rev higher than the H, and are a bit lighter, but they lack the initial torque of the H.
Either way, he can’t go wrong. They’re all amazing.
There I fixed the problem. DO MORE RESEARCH!