H22 Vs. B18C5

call “cheap mans type R” :banghead:

www.honda-tech.com

:eek: holy fawkn posts

:biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

h22 dont belong in civics. its weight transfor is to the back when the b series are towards teh front and its heavier and weaker then a b series. i hate h series motors btw

stock for stock, the Type R swap would be better suited for auto X.

Nah, let’s spend all the budget on the motor and then complain that tires and entry fees are too expensive or pass up track events because the car isn’t “tuned” yet. Let’s buy suspensions that lower the car but when asked what the spring rates are come up with a blank look on our face.

If a SP is capable of FTD why the fuck spend $3k to heat up the fronts faster?

Wow…lots of people saying different things.

For the hell of it, I vote F20 + H22 pistons + K24 crank = RWD F24

B-serious.

as for the H22 trash that idea. while it does have it’s advantages (one being torque, another is cost.) it’s more difficult to swap in, actual good parts are few and far between save for of course the few decent specialty shops that cater to accords and H22’s

Also the increased weight of the swap is definitly detrimental to his goals. the added weight over the fronts may be better suited for drag racing than auto-xing as it upsets the factory weight distribution and also the engine sits about 2-3" inches higher having a negative effect on the center of gravity. (most serious drift, and time attack cars try to lower the engine and move it as far back in the engine bay as possible to lower the center of gravity and help in weight distribution.)

bottom line b-series is cheaper, more parts available for cheaper, lighter weight.

http://www.komputer.dk/bohp/road/Classic/Shared/bildbank/keyboard/f12.gif
F12 Swap FTW it’s super-light.

Seriously though if he’s just going to use it for Auto-X, just upgrade the suspension/tires. It will help a lot more. And keep you in an easier to compete class. A motor swap is just going to result roasting tires off, and weight-reduction in the wallet. If you want a swap my vote leads towards the B-series as the weight savings would be beneficial.

Power while it is nice isn’t the most needed, when it mostly comes down to driver skill. Proof is in “The Corolla of DOOM”.

its not hard at all… just mounts and weird axles… all of which you can find on the internet within 5 min…

but the egs have that axle bind issue with the h22 cause it sits too low

wow look how awesome the power is out of the h22

http://www.innovativetuningdl.com/dyno/MaxPower/CMancuso4.23.05.gif

oh, and this is cammed, and has a bump up in compression
:bloated:

heres a cammed itr also with a bump up in compression

http://www.maxpowertuning.com/dyno.jpg

and here is joes old k20a dyno (stock with a header)


(that tq line is flat where its missing)

gee which would i rather have? look at all that tq the k20a doesnt have down low :bloated:

[QUOTE=Zer0DazE]wow look how awesome the power is out of the h22

http://www.innovativetuningdl.com/dyno/MaxPower/CMancuso4.23.05.gif

oh, and this is cammed, and has a bump up in compression
:bloated:

heres a cammed itr also with a bump up in compression

http://www.maxpowertuning.com/dyno.jpg

something is wrong with this person engine because it shouldn’t be that low… stock dyno for jdm engine with basic bolt on should yield more power than than. Take pennywise, dyno for example… plus dynojet reads higher than other dyno…I’m not saying the h22 is better than the k20, ofcourse it’s not but with the cost of the k20a still so high, I think if i was in his situation, it would be better to go with b series for better handling in auto cross.

http://www.loudaccord.com/images/loudaccorddyno.jpg

I don’t think that’s my dyno :gotme:

Ok - I get annoyed at threads like this because everyone talks out their ass.

First - if you don’t have (or had at one point) either swap - your opinion is duely noted, but useless.

Second - If you don’t AUTOX, your opinion is also useless (and by autox, I mean, being good at it).

So here is the answer, which was already mentioned earlier in this thread. If you want a winning autox car, the B18C5 is worlds better, as proven by Chris Travis (look up his results at national events). He beat George Little Jr’s eclipse by 4 seconds overall (2 seconds in the wet!).

However, also in front of George was the Janusz’ car, as mentioned, is an EF with a D16. Autox is about handling and driving ability. Spend the money on suspension and tires.

So the rest of you can continue going on and on about what you may “think” you need for an autox car, but you can’t argue with results. Dale’s stock ITR is a very, very fast autox car partly because of a good setup, but mostly because of a great driver.

there is a lot of shitty info in this thread.

if you have the money, k20 is the way to go. If not, both the B and the H CAN work well for auto-x. There was a vid on Honda-tech of a 4dr H22 civic crushing people at an auto-x event. There are also vids of c5 civics crushing, just depends on what floats your boat.

Before I even think about recommending you a motor, I’d like to say this :

Have fun competing against the SM heavyweights…

if you really wanna AutoX, suspension + tires ftw

Figure out what you can do in a particular class, and do everything, nothing else.

Considering what SK is fighting with hes been pulling off some nice times in his corolla of doom.

Also who won the novice class last weekend at bimp? Thats right a bone stock oldsmobile alero.

I also belive that alero was a dual driver car 56, 156 (NHS) the diffrence in the drivers was about 3-4 seconds. There was NO diffrence in the car.

Proving you dont need to mod out your car to be competitive.

Modding the driver GENUINELY is more important than modding your car. I NEVER quite grasped this until I started getting really into Auto-X.

At BIMP I tested out this theory… My first run I attacked the course with no rhyme or reason. Ended up with a 67.xxx on my course. The 3rd run I actually concentrated on hitting my apicies and I ended up with a 61.xxx an improvement of 6 seconds on a 1 minute course just by modifying my driving technique.

NO amount of horsepower is going to make up for crappy driving.

If the diffrence between crappy driving and OK driving is 6 seconds god knows what the diffrence is between crappy driving and GOOD driving.

In the end power is just a veil to hide deficencies in driving. It can help to a point. Then you get to a point where you add more power than you can handle and end up getting beat by people with half the horsepower that REALLY know what they are doing.

all the dynos were corrected to match dyno jet numbers

and yes joe, that is your dyno. i have the entire winpep folder off spinas machine :slight_smile:

he wasn’t arguing about that… there was something wrong with that H22 engine is what he was saying.