Help, Cant hook on ET Streets

i was soo excited tonight… finally some runs with my ET streets. they are used tires tho, but still plenty of tire tread left. rubber felt soft and looked great.

I even took off my front sway bar but left the wonderbar. i’m painting the swaybar to match the rest of the suspension

i did my usual car setup… dropped the front shock rate to softest settin

rears this time i set at 3/5 on the shocks with 5 being stiffest. street tires for me liked 4. i had 1.88 to 1.94 60’s on a good day on street tires

tried the tires at 18psi… seemed to hook but i was rewarded with 1.92 60 foot… there probly was some spin.

tried 16 psi, then 14, then 12 twice as the night got cooler. all started to hook then spin then hook. 60’s were 1.91-1.93. not much better than my street tires

my topend as expected was killed off abit. runs for me were 13.94, 13.96 twice, 13.99 and 14.04. actually street tire times

my suspension is eibach prokit springs, with tokico adjustable shocks. panhard bar, lower control arms from spohn with brackets… set in bottom most hole. stock rear sway bar.

i stalled the car up on the line, as much as i could before it pushed out. one run i had the car stalled lower and just let it flash. most full stalled runs were about 2400-2500rpms or so. the flash was more like 2000rpm.

i think something is wrong with my suspension/chasis… its just not allowing the tires to hook

or could it be i have bad rubber on these et streets??

one PRP track prep sucks
2nd to less of psi wont hook either
3rd lowering springs arent good for hooking
4th instead of brake stalling it high should leave around 1200 to 1500 and let hte converter do the work

last not enough power

yes , don’t bring the rpm’s up so high. i run mine at 2-22oo on a 3500 stall. flashes to 4

it was humid lASTNIGHT

now ur hooking ,but dont have the power!

less rpm on lunch also 1600-1800

Honestly I had problems hooking my car when it was close to stock…
I would take shocks to softest setting in rear, that will take some of the hit of tires and transfer more weight… also try running with the slick tired cars as there is a little prep and more heat in track.
PRP prep does suck - and we need people to complain!!!
I complained, and Frank told me “nobody else has a problem with it”

Letting converter flash will probably let you hook better, will probably run better if it hooks getting rpm up like you were, but not always…

Atleast you pulled 13s good job, and the D/A had to suck… it was really, really, humid here and hot.

i figured the weather was bad… i wasnt expecting to run my best times. but atleast my 60 foot should have been better than my street tires.

what do you mean by not enough power? i know the car is weak but the low end is very strong. with 2800 stall and slicks, it should launch very hard. i know i was spinnin, i could feel it. if it hooks i should be very low 1.8’s. i can do a 1.88 on street tires and thats babyin it off the line.

next time i’ll play with the suspension, and try flashin it.

how tall are the tires?whats ur gearing,i forget!

well i have 3.27’s in the car. the tires are 26x11.5x16 on those 16x8 rims i got from you which turned out great. i’m gettin pics up soon. the gears are not bad for TPI powerband, but i could use 3.42’s and maybe even 3.70s with these slicks.

i know my top end is suffering since the tires are taller than the streets so i expected a loss at topend… and it showed no doubt.

my suspension is pretty much adjustable… adjustable shocks, panhard bar, and brackets for my LCA’s. i just gotta mess around with it.

on street tires, i launched best with shocks in front set super soft, and rears set pretty stiff. should i have stiff rear shocks on DOT slicks? or should i keep them soft? cuz out at the track, i had them at medium and then pretty soft. still same 60 foot and same hook/spin/hook launch. atleast i was consistant

rear shocks should be some what stiff to help it from over dipping in rear. you want transfer but not to much whre you lose forward momentum. you want to transfer weight while moving forward this is why wheeling actually hurts your time cause some of your momentum is now in the air. and not enough power honestly will hurt when you have tires. sometimes when not enough power its best to be on street tires to allow some spinning off line to allow you to stay up in RPMs as youre launching.
you can have all that happy stuff but if its for autocross it wont do you crap for drag. so many times ppl with improperly setup suspensions or just wrong in general will have poor results at the track compared to others with bascially stock suspension or full out drag.

believe it or not but stock suspensions with different shocks works very well for the most part untill you really get deep into times.

humid conditions will rob all kinds of power off you especially down low power. you can be down on power as much as 60hp in some situations. for a boosted car probably more

u have less gear now 24’’ tall tires to 26 u lose alot of gear!so that hirting u!

if you have 327s now and went up 2" youre now sitting at 308s and thats horrible for youre setup

my street tires should be 25.7 inches new. they are used up a good bit so i think they are more like 25.5 now. 26inch tall et streets. so i think my gearin is more like 3.1x or something. not optimal at all, but not overly bad.

remember, i been 1.89 on street tires with 2.77 gears and the 3.27s. theirs not too much difference between the two gears

between a 273 and a 327 theres should be about a 400 to 500 rpm difference

again read above learn from it

a 100 shot will make up for the differance

:love:

Are the tires pulling the motor down at launch? How are you doing the burn out? Make sure your almost out of the water if not it just sprays the wheel wells donw with water on to drip on the tires at the line. Make sure your spinning the tires out of the ater also Soon as you see smoke the tires are hot enough.

i seen yo udrive you have a lead foot youll blow the intake into peices

idk but i have had no problem hooking up in my ride, :dunno:

The less traction you have, you need to make the chassis take some of the shock from the tires, unless of course you are getting to much transfer
and bottoming out an unloading tires…
If traction is great, you want the suspension stiffer to not lose time transfering chassis.