hey lets here your engine build

SON240sx Automotive
41

Rotaries are gay. Bandwagon jumpers are gay. People that do shit just to be unique are gay.

^ This is exactly why I hate Ahmed. Hector managed to summarize and describe it perfectly. This is what he does with every post, including the ones made in this thread. He’s not capable of talking with people without talking down at them. And this is why I’ll always talk shit about him, wherever I see him. Like so:

Ahmed is a huge faggot that has no friends, and is hated in every group he has attempted to join.

42

Oh good! So I can pick up lots of guys with my Rx-7 when the 13B is done!? SWEET! I’m excited now!

Stage 1 (In Progress):

13B-RE Cosmo Housings
Series-5 NA ‘High Compression’ (9.7:1) Rotors
Series-5 NA ‘6-Port’ Irons
New Bearings All Around
Thermal Pellet Blockoff
Streetport Primaries
Streetport Secondaries
Bridgeport Auxiliaries (5th and 6th Ports)
Pineapple Racing Auxiliary Port Sleeves
Racing Beat Oil Pan Baffle Plate
Lightweight Cro-Moly Flywheel
Custom Clutch and Pressure Plate

Stage 2 (By Next Summer):

GT35R @ ~15psi

But I digress…

The 240’s engine is done for me already, and I’m leaving it pretty much alone:

Cometic Head Gasket
New Timing Chain
CentreForce Clutch and Pressure Plate
B&M Short Shifter
(Full Custom Header Back Exhaust in the works)

…That is all…

43

Well shit, I had to welcome you back somehow :smiley:

44

first things first, what is your goal with this car - is it a drift car, drag car, circuit car etc -

do you want 300 hp 400 hp or 500+ hp ?

if you only want 300 hp DO NOT waste your money building your engine to that extent, a head gasket and head studs will last you years on only 300hp

if you want to make 400hp reliably you can build the bottom end using STOCK crank, upgraded bearings, eagle rods and which ever pistons you choose, stay stock size or go .20 over, the higher you go the more compression and less OEM reliability -

in the head, there will always be more work than what you think is needed, cams, valves, springs and retainers are a must if the engine is apart -

i would budget for at LEAST 4500 dollars to build your engine, i am currently well over that with similar modifications, if your going to re use stock lifers, and stock guides, etc - its not really saving you anything to leave them oem -

here is a quick breakdown of a parts list where you can get an idea of in your hands pricing -

Head downward -

HKS RAS 150
BC Cams 300
BC Springs and Retainers 180
BC SS Valves 150
Head work? 400 to 2000
Pistons 400 to 1000 to 2000
Rods 350 to 1000
Bearings 150 to 400
ARP Head Studs 120
ARP Main Studs 160
ARP Flywheel bolts 90
Gasket rebuild kit 180
OEM Water pump 80
OEM Oil Pump 235
New Chain or Aftermarket 160 to 500
Greddy Oil Pan 450
ATI Crank Pulley 450
Spark Plugs 50 to 150
Splitfire Coil Packs 450
Block Machine work? 500 to 2000
Misc Machine work Cleaning And Assembly 500

Im sure i am missing many parts but this gives you an idea of how expensive building an engine properly can get.

This set up can easily handle 500HP as well but i do not know how you will get it there without all the other supporting modifications, which will inevitably take you well into the 8 to 10 thousand dollar range…

45

See I hate how people think oh i can build a motor for cheap this and that but I bet that person will be crying when their cheaper build blows. That right there is a proper build reliable and expensive I myself have spent quite a bit but in the end it will be way worth it…

I would rather go with JWT s3 cams but thats me…world would be shit if everyone did the samething…

46

LS1 would be sweet but I think the LT1 would be a good choice, I like the engine and there pretty reliable.

47

yup, with a new head/springs, new oilpump, nismo thermo/new waterpump, clutch.flywheel upgrades,

and a few other goodies, = my motor w/10k

48

The saying goes (and this dates back past the muscle-car days, and remains true to this day):

Cheap / Fast / Reliable – Pick any two.