So I recently had a block built at Gord Bush Performance and figured I would post up some build pics. Quality and service is top notch. I’ve already had a different motor built by him so Im confident this one will hold up.
The only thing I worry is Ive seen alot of built SRs come apart and it seems like sticking with the stock bottom end is the way to go. Oh well we’ll see what happens on the dyno.
After everything is disassembled, the top of the block is milled then it goes into this machine which bores the cylinders to size.
This bit here cuts the top of the combustion chamber so that it has that nice edge. I remember there was a purpose to it but it escapes me now.
So fresh and so clean!
Then its off to the honing machine. Rather than doing this with a drill or by hand this machine ensures a perfect cross hatch.
Bottom end has Eagle rods and ARP mains.
JE Pistons with their teflon coating
SR Oil pump. To think that this little contraption brings life to your engine.
Upper SR oil pan
ARP head studs
Coming together…
It looks like a real motor now! Head has 256 poncams and has been ported. Very curious to see if it will make any big power improvements over my current setup.
Are u going with a stroker kit or oversize pistons?What head type head job have u done?It realy looks nice, what is the turbo setup u going to use on it?
no its not a stroker, I dont need it. Just .20 over pistons thats it.
The turbo is a GT2871R .64 running 16-19psi. This block is overkill for the size of turbo but better safe then sorry.
The head was done at Headgames Motorworks in NJ and received a full port & polish good for 600hp supposedly. I am anxious to see whether this head paired with my turbo will provide top end gains and keep my midrange or kill it. I found the .64 to drop off a bit at redline but this setup could prove to remedy that.
Why run a small turbo like that on a fully built engine? You have an engine that can push out about 600hp or more depending on turbo and tunning and you are going to run a GT2871r.64.
When you’ve been in RWD cars that make that much hp you’ll know. 600hp street cars are for bragging rights thats it. they are useless when you step into them all they do is spin, I dont want that nor do I care about big peaky power. I want a setup that will be responsive and street friendly. The 300whp I have right now is already plenty fast on the track this will probably net may 20-30whp more but with reliability and more midrange torque (or so I hope).
The rebuild including bearings and all the little things (seals, etc.) was around 1400. I had the pistons and rods already. Not cheap by any means but thats just a little more than the average price of an SR block. And I know that Gord Bush can provide quality not like some other hack machine shops out there.
Wow, that’s significantly less than I thought… Even taking into account that you had the pistons and rods already.
So probably closer to $3000 for the build, with the rods, pistons and hardware? This sounds close to my project for this winter, so I’m very interested to hear more about it. Looks sexy.
There is also something to be said for a motor that just runs better. You don’t always have to build for power. I’m sure Pete’s motor is also perfectly balanced so it may ultimately make the same power, but it will “feel” like a million bucks.
That does include my discount But I cant imagine it being that much more, best way is to call for a quote. I estimate these rebuilds to be in and around the 2K mark without the big hardware depending on what you have done.
I think you are right though once you add the pistons and rods, the ARP bolts it does probably hit 3K after its all said and done.
