is the block not the weakest point of a b series motor? so if the block is all forged what can i break? maybe i’m being a little over zealous with 500whp. maybe i’ll start with 300 or so and see how i like it. as far as daily driving… if i’m easy on it 95% of the time (shifting before 4k), is there anything to worry about? will the motor be more stressed than it would be n/a if i’m not pushing it to 9k everywhere everyday? it’s supposed to be a street car that can do well at the track… but mostly a street car. i just want to be done with the block so that i don’t have to worry about shit breaking when the car has over 100k on it. so that when i want more power i just need a new tune, new injectors, and maybe a new fuel pump. that’s why i want a big turbo. i want it to lag so i can dd it without boost and i want it to be able to boost me to 500 or 600whp. i won’t be racing professionally, i won’t be going to the track every week, i will be driving it alot. it’s for fun and to embarrass ricers.
I daily drove my 240sx with 471 rwhp. But I also had another car to drive in case shit broke. I would strongly recommend buying another beater car or something, there tends to be a lot of downtime during car builds and ecspecially when stuff breaks.
I love the abilitly to toss around 500hp like its a joke…
Let me tell you somthing about 500whp fwd car. One word and that is terror.I drove my 500hp car on the street on the high way and yes the car will still blow the tires off at 80mph and start sliding side to side. last year on slicks i couldent get my car to go straight in the 1/4 and it still went 10’s. with 300 passes under my belt
The block is the weekest point to a b series motor without sleeves. but with 500hp we are talking about almost 400TQ. that is very hard on these trannys and clutches esp for daily driving. you get 1 wheel hop with that much power and you blow a diff or break an axle.
Some more things to consider is that pump gas/race gas. Yes sure you can make 500hp on pump but is it retarded!
I wouldent worry about building the motor yet. Get your feet wet with boost on a stock motor. Push it to 300+whp and i promise you will be scared of it at that point. That is all around better for daily driving too.
Your building a Race car you may not know it yet but trust me this shit is worse then drugs…
Sorry for the rambleing i am alone,bored, at work with nothing to do except to read this thread.
Did i mention i have a Proven manifold/downpipe/wastegate fs?
This man speaks the truth. There’s nothing more scary than flooring it on dry pavement at 70 mph and feeling the tires break loose and you start swerving.
you would lose traction while moving at 300whp? see that’s the kind of info i need. that is insane. like i said before it’ll be babied 95% of the time so driving it daily i should rarely hit boost. is there alot of stress on the axles and tranny from a roll? i’ve learned from you joe to get the tires rolling before punching it when stopped. what’s your 620whp beast like joe? do you have any video of you racing?
250-300whp on the street is really fun in a fwd. That’s where I’m at right now. You can easily drive it too. Still takes a little getting used to at first, though.
is it tough to beat a 300whp civic on the street? i hate kids whose parents bought them an srt4 or evo and they think they’re sweet. i want to be able to beat almost everything i come across on the street. fun is what i’m looking for, not broken trannys
300 whp will be a handful on the street, your main enemy will be traction.
YES!!!
YES!!!
YES!!!
If you have 500 whp and you will handily beat those cars roll racing definitely…hell most street bikes too. But you need to understand that DD’ing it will be marginal at best. 500 whp Civic is like perfect sex with a high-end escort. You may get a few go’s at her, but eventually she will complain and start to demand more money.
Key word marginal. Keep in mind that once you reach this stage of a build repairs are exponentially more expensive. Don’t build it if you can’t maintain it. Demanding money is a bit of an understatement. Ask Joe if he ever imagined the sheer volume of cash he’s put into hatches over the course of time he’s been boosting Hondas. I don’t know him personally, but I’ll bet my Integra if you’d have asked him a long time ago that he’d be in this deep, he’d tell you’re fucking crazy. There is no methadone for boost.
Truth be told
That is what you tell yourself , Oh I’m only gonna drive it normal on the street ,I wont rev her out hahahah yeah right.
That will only last so long , You will start going to the track more often getting closer to a personal goal , trying even harder , turning up the boost to get that last 1/10th or 2 . Then its oh oh
Or yeah you do run into those srt4’s and Evo’s on the street so you start rollin on em and now its all over the addiction starts no matter how much you say you wont , You will. Especially if you are in some close races on the street you will do what you think you need to win , and you will be back out there looking for the run.
And the trouble starts.
If its your daily take it easy 300 is damn nice and will be reliable. Unless you dont need the car or flat out have too much money then have at it.
My Evo can sit if shit breaks , until I am good and ready to repair or upgrade so I can play hard with it. But if I need it for everyday that changes things
that’s the main thing i want to avoid is breaking shit. that’s why i’m worried about running more than 10lbs of boost on the stock motor. axles are no big deal but as long as i’m not an idiot launching it at 5k from a stop every day i’m hoping that i won’t have problems with my tranny. the idea behind forged internals and sleeves is so that i don’t have to fuck with the block in the future and so that i don’t have to constantly worry about breaking stuff. stock compression on a b16 is 10:1, isn’t that a little too high to run boost to 300whp? and how far can the b16 be bored?
get good rods, pistons, and bearings + ARP head studs. know your power goal and plan accordingly. Lower you compression ratio by choosing the right piston or thicker head gasket. Sleeving your block is a little overkill for your power goals IMO plus its going to be around $8-900. I have seen stock sleeves handle 30+lbs reliabley on a good conservative tune. If you do decide to sleeve it i would recomend boring it to a 1.8L to help spool that massive turbo. The power curve for that motor (stock bore) and turbo will be useless.
The stock bore is 81mm on a b16 and you cannot bore it past 81.5 without sleeving.
10:1 is fine for 300 whp on the street for with pump gas
isn’t the bore on the b18’s the same as the b16…81mm? when you get lower compression pistons, do you lose alot of power but gain it back with the ability to run more boost? so 300whp on a completely stock b16 is safe? it makes more sense to do that than upgrade the sleeves, pistons, rods, and bearings when there’s nothing wrong with oem. head studs would probably make sense. maybe a port and polish too. how much does that cost and where is a good place to get it done? and can gsr or type r cams slip right into a b16? another reason i’m leaning towards sleeves is i think golden eagle will pick my motor up from hmotors and pull the head off, ship that to me, and then send me the sleeved block. that’ll save me a ton in shipping so i figure i’d only spend about 600 on sleeves after saving that money in shipping. if i do sleeves now i’ll pay 300 less than if i decide to do them later.
Pretty much anytime you lower compression ratios, you lose power. If you were to build the motor with lower compression pistons and not have the turbo kit on it, you would feel a noticable difference in power loss. The benefit is that you will be able to run more boost and thus increasing power with the addition of the turbo kit.
You really need to understand the fact that NOTHING is completely safe with turboing any factory n/a motor. There is no set amount of boost or horsepower level that says “if you run this amount or under your motor won’t blow up.” All of the “safeness” lies in the proper tune of air/fuel ratios.
Not to sound brash, but I think you are trying to take on way too much at one time here.
If I were you, I would start with getting a decent turbo kit, a decent engine management system, injectors, a fuel pump, a lower compression headgasket, headstuds, a good clutch, and a full 3" exhaust. Then take it for a good dyno tune. See where that takes you first.
The built motor can come later, or you could even buy a spare block to start piecing together a built motor to throw in at a later time with the stock one craps out or maxes out on you.
yo my car was a stock 81mm b16 10 to 1 compression and on 7 psi i almost made 300 whp and my car would have lasted forever but bein that i had the boost controler and put it in and decided to just run around with it in on like 20 psi and did a dumb ass highway pull 4th gear and spun 2 bearings but the pistons and walls where still like new but its up to you what you want to rock 7, 15, 25, 30 just be smart and remember that anything over 300 whp in a light ass car is crazy and you have to know how to drive it
With or without NOS?
A lot of people on the west coast are building stout higher compression N/A motors with the intention of spraying it when extra power is necessary. Just a thought.