Hell im not even up to 300 in mine and it still scares me… it is the truth, learn to drive 300- hp before jumping too high, im glad i did.
i even decided to leave mine alone engine wise and do suspension mods… i dont know where i am for sure but it should be 270whp ish and it’s a handful in the twisties. it’s omnipower full adjustable coilovers for me next on the mods list.
Type R diff should be on your list too then!
what clutch do you guys recommend? I’ve heard the puck style grabs hard as hell but sucks for the street and eats flywheels. is clutchmasters a good brand for civics? I want something that grabs but is streetable.
idk if centerforce makes a clutch for hondas, but for dsms they are very streetable and hold 300hp.
I switched over from an xtd 6-puck clutch because is was near impossiple to drive in traffic.
lol at all the boost is like drugs comments, it makes sence, I’ve done alot of horrible things to make my car faster…
For how much power? I run and ACT 6 puck and Maxx Pressure plate. I Wouldent recomend it for anything under 450whp.
I would get the ACT MAXX Pressure plate and the street disk.
But they are all good.
I had an exedy Street stage one hold 11’s and has over 28,000 miles on it now in my girl friends integra. Its a pretty heavy clutch (To push in)
Compition clutch is also very good
i don’t think i want a puck style. clutchmaster makes a clutch kit for civics that hold like 110% more than the stock clutch. and what does RLS stand for and are their manifolds any better than spoolin performance?
rld not rls sorry
ACT/Exedy/Clutchmasters/etc…all are fine, you’ll find people who swear by one and hate the rest. In reality just don’t ever do the “stage” stuff.
RLS? Never heard of it. Did you check out the Quick4 Spoolin manifold I told you about?
Check out manifold by:
Neukin
Peakboost
Full-Race
CRP
Spoolin Performance
Treadstone Performance
RevHard
Spark Racing
SMSP
SFP
ya i checked out spoolin. i liked it and the price wasn’t bad. i figure all equal lengths are going to be about the same if they’re a/c friendly. the only thing that i’m really looking for is price and warrenty. so if i go with clutchmaster what should i get there’s like 3 different ones for 545?? stage 2,3, and 4
I have never heard anything good about clutchmasters. I would suggest an ACT Heavy duty pressure plate with a 6 puck disk. Its never done me wrong.
True story
I had an ACT 4 puck in my first alltrac, it was the best clutch i’ve ever had.
i’ve heard puck style destroys flywheels
they start to chatter, then you pull it out (if you are ghey enough) and get it re-cut… done
I have a 6 puck ACT disk and a sprung ACT pressure plate (non-extreme) and a 12lb flywheel. I’ll let you know what it looks like after 2000 miles of hard driving when I disassemble it sometime this winter.
and by destroys i mean that they’ve eaten a flywheel in 2 months. i didn’t mean clutchmasters i meant centerforce
centerforce is poo for hondas
been running act 8lb flywheel (already been resurfaced before) and a ACT Heavy duty pressure plate and a 6-Puck Sprung in my 370whp integra. hasnt givin me any problems yet, nor has it slipped yet at the track on 235 BFG’s. gets annoying for daily driving and traffic but what do you expect?
ok i can get a bare ge sleeved b16 block for 950 shipped. i need pistons, rods, a crank and what else to make it complete??? i calculated it out and if i get forged pistons and rods, it’s only costing me 400 more dollars to get it sleeved. they have a head and a crank lying around and i can get a complete motor from them for 1550. anybody think that’s a bad deal??
Do NOT Sleeve a B16 block. Get a B18a/b/c/b20
They are a taller deck
If I ever decide to build a Honda, I’m just going to rely completely on Eric and Joe.
:grouphug: