[quote=“turbo ls1 ss,post:111,topic:24117"”]
i think you are overdoing it a bit, just hear me out. you realize when you go to a HD rod bolt like this, it’s mainly for revs, and not so much power, right? out of curiosity, how high do you plan on revving? i know it seems like im always on your case, but to me it seems you are buying these things because they are the highest shelf item with the biggest price tag, and not becuase they are the right combo for your build in any aspect. I know your car will be making stupid power, thats a no brainer with a FI viper v10. but, you are belittling a L19 rod bolt, when in actuality the step below ARP2000 would get the job done, and well. what is the goal?, so you can say you have the very best of everything in the car? i mean, thats cool, but beyond unnecessary to have a very well oiled machine that makes stupid power, and be as reliable as you can get it
again, just curious, not here to start any drama at all
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First of all, yes, the rod bolt strength generally does directly impact RPM capability, of course I realize that. The most stress on a rotating assembly ocurs on the exhaust/intake changeover when the piston free-wheels without load, and that is where rod bolts come into play. The combustion stroke does not involve the rod bolts much at all. However, there are other things to take into consideration, that you arent realizing… its called MASS and DOLLARS.
You need to stop talking down to me when you post, because that is exactly what a stupid “poke, gotcha” question like that is doing. You remind me of JNJ, but you dont go so far as to actually call somone stupid. Under the surface, it appears you are always trying to start drama, whether you realize it or not. But, I am going to humor you anyways.
I dont think you are seeing the whole picture…
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The build I put together is designed to handle an insane amount of power, as such, the components are all vastly overbuilt. As a result, the mass of the rotating assembly increases greatly. Stronger rod bolts are needed to simply to keep it together, even at OEM RPM’s. Since I increased the mass of the rod and piston assembly by almost 50%, as well as plan on pushing the RPM up a little bit + breathing room, stronger rod bolts are a MUST. On the same note, you know that Vipers come with ARP-2000 bolts from the factory, right? And even they snap like twigs at the slightest hint of a spun bearing?
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The next question is “how strong”. Well, think of it this way; If I DO spin a bearing, and my rod bolts are strong enough to hold together, I just saved a lot of money. If I have a rod bolt fail, for whatever reason, and a rod goes tumbling around in my block… well, lets look at this in real world numbers- its going to take the following peices with it, figuring it could take the two closest rods:
Bolts Let Go:
-Block: 10,000
-Crank: 2,500
-Pistons: 275x3: 825
-Rods: 375x3: 1125
-Wrist Pins: 59x3: 177
-Oiling Pickup: 1,000
-Oil Pan: 450
-Valves: 65x6: 390
-Rockers: 100x6: 600
-Re-Coating new parts: 350
-Labor: A FUCKING LOT
TOTAL: $17,417
That means if I lost a rod cap, I could expect to aquire SEVENTEEN THOUSAND, FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS in damage, not including labor, head damage, gaskets, peripherals… You say I am overdoing it? I say I cant afford not to! For an extra 800 bucks or so, its cheap insurance in the long run, not to mention the amount of down time it has the ability to save.
- Last reason: fasteners this strong are designed to last the life of the rod, and never need changing. Sorry, but changing rod bolts is not my cup of tea… I would pay the extra cost alone to not have to do that 20 damn times all over again every season.
I can totally understand why using a bolt like this is “out of those world” for the LS1 guys, as you guys have multitudes of cheap off the shelf parts, and can replace a block at a moments notice. Hell, for the 800 dollar difference, you can probably get a spare block! Once you jump into Low-Production, high-dollar stuff, its a whole new set of rules. Money doesnt go as far, and things take much longer.
