When I assclown on the street and dump the clutch anywhere between 2k and 4k, I spin more than I’d like.
When I was at the track last night for my first time, I was slowly getting used to launching the car, and my highest launch was around 2k… and I had ZERO wheel spin.
I’m running nitrogen filled street tires, @ IIRC 40psi.
The traction was incredible. It made me want to launch harder and harder, but with better traction and harder launches, you can break parts, and my biggest concern, is my axles.
So as the title implies, how far can I push my car before I snap an axle?
I’m not trying to snap one, but I’d like to know my limits before I have to shell out another several 100 bucks for more new parts.
u want just a lil bit of wheel spin that way u know ur launching with enough force to get off the line the best u can…only worry about axles if u run slicks…if ur spinning and not hopping u wont hurt axles as much as u think…to put it a better way DRAG RACING is not good on parts no matter what u do…
No matter what car you are driving and how much power you are putting down, repetative launches like that is going to break something. A cavalier wasnt really meant to be put up to the abuse that its getting now so id imagine they arent going to last much longer. Is there a big aftermarket in axels for your car? Id suggest getting some stronger ones if you plan on racing it much more.
your theory is to buy a heavy auto family sedan, have the chance to buy a different car that youve always wanted, but then settle for that same heavy family sedan instead.
The only next step after what I’ve done, would be removing the axle from the transmission and installing a new one.
IIRC, it’s fairly easy, you just have to pull the old axle, and put the new one in.
EDIT: And I do plan on upgrading, I’d like to hit 9’s this year. I’ve done a 10.90 with 2 people in the car, with a little practice, I figure I can hit a 10.60-10.50. MAYBE a 10.40-10.30.
Then with a few minors mods, I SHOULD be able to shave half a second off my time.
I think colder air, engine mounts, and underdrive pulleys should get me there.
I highly doubt your going to snap an axle with a “near stock” car. I’m not completely familiar with Cavys, so I don’t know for sure that the axles are the #1 limiting factor… but I think your clutch will check out long before your axles.
I thought your car was new(er)… shouldn’t you have a warranty?
Well it’s a 2001, I already had to replace my struts, mounts AND wheel bearings… that might give you an idea how the quality of the car is.
As far as a warranty, the car was purchased used from the dealer I worked at for $6900. I rolled over some $ from my truck, and didn’t think of a warranty myself, nor did the finance people offer one.
40 psi sounds like too much pressure for any street tire. The more pressure you put in a tire the more it wears the center out. Most street tires on passenger vehicles are between 29-33 psi
I’ll double check the new tires, my GoodYear RSA’s had a max pressure listed as 44psi.
I’ll check them out and see where the pressure is, I might as well have Dunn Tire do it actually, those lazy pricks (Walden Ave. in Lancaster/Depew) Aligned my car, and never straightened my steering wheel.
just because the tire itself has a max pressure of 44psi dont mean u should run it i would stick to around 33psi…and for Pass McGrass i love my light family sedan…prolly weighs less than ur car
On street tires in a cav you’re more likely to either bog or spin, not snap parts. Spinning is obviously better than bogging, you can always feather the clutch to limit the wheelspin, but like Jack says, you’re going to give the clutch a pink slip before the halfshafts go.
As someone else had mentioned… Steel has a fatigue life… It will break after repeated abuse… not after some magical launch.
Chances are you could launch all day long at the track, and wind up snapping it leaving a stop sign.
We snapped a solid steal axle right in half on the UBSAE formula car… it was only after we took it off that we noticed the whole axle had stress marks running through it like a corkscrew… the whole axle twisted to the point of failure. We chalked it up to improper rear suspension setup causing unusually high forces through the axle. But my point is… it was happening over time…
