Alright i’m looking for [edit] a symmetrical [/edit] drag-type tire for the T-rex. I just ordered a 315/40/R17 Nitto Drag… but will likely need another one in a month or two.
Currently have a 17"x10.5" Rim on the back and the factory tire is a 285/45/R17. Anything between that and a 315/40/R17 is good.
I’m looking for a compromise between traction and wear (don’t we all?). Meaning, i wont go for an auto-x type tire because i’ll likely get only 200 miles out of it. However, if i can get 1000miles or so… i’ll be happy.
It’s a sunny day vehicle so i’m not worried about wet traction, i’ll just have to park/nurse it if i get caught in the rain.
Originally, i wanted a BF Goodrich Drag Radial, but couldn’t find a close enough size to fit a 17" rim. Ken/Bladez assured me that there is a 315mm, but the widest i found was like a 245mm. I can’t believe i couldn’t locate one.
Recommendations based on personal experience would be great.
Drag radials are heavy. I personally always recommend the Falken Xiex ZE-512 to people who want straight line traction, but no one (including myself) really knows why. I am able to pull off 2.0 60’ times with them on a 400 whp FWD car, and on the street its possible to hook in 2nd with them. I have had other tires, and truthfully, most stiff sidewalled tires just don’t hook because they are meant for handling, not traction.
If you don’t care about weight, then the Nitto should be OK. Turbociv just went to a MT DR and is disappointed in how heavy they are. I would not go with a BFG DR, as I hear people are having more trouble hooking with them then they did with street tires.
I really liked my Nittos on the street but was a bit disappointed with them at the track. I know you mentioned you wouldn’t see much of any rain, but if you did, the Nittos work surprisingly well in the wet. I got ~8000 miles out of mine.
holy carp! didn’t even see that. I’m assuming you’ve looked into and it’s not just an issue with that particular vendor.
The only other tire that I’ve driven that I;d be able to recommend is a Hoosier QTP. I dunno about sizing, and they are a bit “aggressive” for the street, even in your situation.
the only issue i had with the Hoosier DR’s were some people I had talked to stressed not using them on streets/highways because of premature failure… i assume they are much more sensative to heat and prolonged heat (i.e highway cruising at higher speeds) may cause a blow out. Personally, I didn’t want to risk it.
You want an asymmetrical tire for a wheel that is vehicle centered?
You want a “drag” tire for a tire that does all the “cornering” (not really twice the amount of cornering of a comparable 4 wheeled vehicle) ?
You want a “drag” tire that usually has a lower cornering stiffness than a “cornering” tire?
You want a tire for basically a bike that has dynamics closer to a car and want a lower cornering capabilities?
You want better wear but are considering a tire (Nitto Drags) with 100 treadwear where-as an auto-X type street tire have twice (take with a grain of salt) the treadwear rating?
And lastly you can afford a $XX,XXX toy, but are worried about the life of a single $200-$300 tire??? It baffles me how people can be so cheap with the only componenet that controls the vehicle.
actually, i meant “a symmetrical”… and wasn’t thinking when i went through and spell checked and had typed it as one word. Notice the tire i did get and posted a picture of is in fact symmetrical.
yes, hence the thread i started. the rear tire hardly does “all the corning” Don’t forget that this vehicle hardly leans side to side and the rear suspension is still the same as a bike and pivots at a point infront of the tire (where a car is between the rims), minus and axial loads the suspension can’t restrain to due to stress.
yes, hence the thread i started. as above, i’m more worried about the sidewall on the front tires, which aren’t changing right now.
yes, i took that into account and would rather take full advantage of the acceleration of the vehicle for the life of the next tire.
i don’t compare the treadwear ratings between tires unless its between the same manufacturer. Especially since the treadwear scale is different between manufacturers. how long will R6 auto-x tires last if you just drive them around for daily driving between sundays?
quote me where i mentioned anything about being concerned with the price of the tire. It has nothing to do with the price, but the inconvenience of changing the tire on this specific machine. Between re-setting the camber/caster, properly aligning the axle, chain tensioning, potential bearings replacement, having to drop the exhaust brackets to get the axle to clear, etc… if it was just a matter of lifting it up and popping the rim off…i wouldn’t care.
the difference between 200 miles and 1000 miles for me is almost 1 week versus over 1 month.
again, find where price of the tire was ever a concern and where i wasn’t asking for recommendations for the best tire to get?
