discuss.
and when i get home i will see who thinks what
GT
hmm,
i like the rx7 just because the rotor. But also becasue the FC is older, they are rarer around here. the ratio of fc’s to s13’s is 1:25 around here
the lines are cleaner, it sounds nicer.
ok preformance wise, i’ve heard that they are a little bit more of a handful at the limit and not as forgiving as a s13.
no because you cant carry out our plan that we havent exicuted yet of drifting into a parking lot with long white scarfs out the window !
I’m going by what I’ve read and that is the Rotary is unreliable as hell. :dunno:
Sorry I can’t back my claims.
fc far supirior in every way, stock to stock out handle an s13 and day, powerband is amazing, spin spin spin all the way to 12000, way less oversteer in a fc , in non turbo form they are slow as hell though
FC non-turbo is about as slow as a KA24DE, or slightly faster (read: NOT fast!) but in turbocharged and/or ported form, has much more potential for power, is faster revving, lighter and has a wider powerband.
I agree with most of what Hector said… the FC does handle better in most cases, has far less body roll, is stiffer, better weight distribution (exactly 50/50), etc., etc.
When it comes to grip driving, the FC is pretty much point and shoot. It just sticks and does exactly what you want it to, and has much higher stock-to-stock lateral G ratings.
However, it is not without its weaknesses. When it comes to drift, the FC is a little bit trickier than the S13 to handle. This is mostly because all the weight is in the middle of the car, instead of at the front and back like in the S13. While yes, this does make it more agile, it also means that steering corrections are very easily overdone, and it has a tendency to snap over or understeer if too much is given. It’s just a little trickier and takes a bit more caution.
The car, while much stiffer, is also about 100-150 pounds heavier than an S13 (depending whether it be a coupe or fastback S13 it’s being compared to).
The rotary engine, while certainly not as unreliable as the claims, is a high maintenance engine. Rebuilds are pretty much mandatory beyond 150,000km, but if one runs a new engine and watches the fluids and temps they’re actually quite reliable. It’s all just a matter of what one is willing to do to maintain his or her car, and whether they’re willing to put the exta effort in to maintain the fluids and filters properly. Rotaries will take absolutely anything you can throw at them if they’re maintained properly, but some people just should not own rotaries. If they run too low on oil for even an instant, you’re clusterfucked. Avoid that and they’ll take severe beatings ALL day long!
That’s about all I can say really with regards to strengths and weaknesses. I personally think it really just comes down to personal preference. You all know I drove an S13 before – which is why I’m here – but I tested an FC and decided I liked it more, so I went that way. Others, I’m sure, would rather stick to an S13.
i think that the FC is a better chassis to work with.
an SR or RB fc would be perfect.
the fc chassis just feels a lot more solid.
There’s quite a few SR FC’s in Japan, and I’ve seen pictures of one with an F20C, so you’re not alone in that line of thinking.
There’s quite a few SR FC’s in Japan, and I’ve seen pictures of one with an F20C, so you’re not alone in that line of thinking.[/quote]
word. fc>s13.
but if yorue goin that route i’d prob go FD.
^^ That’s a whole other ball game though…
Personally, I know I should not own a rotary powered car, and I like how my S13 feels compared to an FC. It feels more, I dunno, ‘no compromise’ with all the rattles and clunks and things.
There’s quite a few SR FC’s in Japan, and I’ve seen pictures of one with an F20C, so you’re not alone in that line of thinking.[/quote]
word. fc>s13.
but if yorue goin that route i’d prob go FD.[/quote]
FD is more comparable to the S15 really. Whole other ball game, and a LOT more money.
Are you talking about a N/A FC that weight can be removed with a lighter bonet. The bonet weighs about 100lbs alone.
I did not read any of the posts but. I had a FC for the winter and did alot of snow drifting. Its alot harder to recover in over the 240. The 240 was much eazer to drive. The FC also gave me alot of problems.
Thats my 2cents
42 lbs., actually.
im slowly modding my car and so far with decent suspension upgrades alone im far more impressed by the fc than i was with my 240 with more than 3x the power…
we will see how i like it once i get the new engine in
GT
new engine huh? gimme details my friend…
I couldn’t agree with this more, couple of ppl on the forums know i started driving a N/A FC (GTU) after i said goodbye to my 240, in my experience the fc really did feel lighter and seemed to handle a lot more sharper (stock for stock) over the 240 fb i had. Yea you just have to keep an extra eye on the fc engine-wise, for me i took over the car from a relative and it ended up blowing a rotor before i could rebuild it in time 
i’d probably still try getting a fc, but a tII this time, there’s a nice feeling to the car.
Oil is also the absolute LIFEBLOOD of the rotary, because the rotating assembly is actually cooled by it! A rotary engine that receives oil changes every 3000km or so will last MUCH longer than one that receives oil changes every 5-6000km.
Still, for those not interested in rotaries, I do feel the chassis in and of itself is simply a stronger design/layout, even with an SR, CA, FJ, F20, etc. But that’s probably more a matter of personal preference than anything, and I’m not here to preach.
Does that mess up the weight balance much though, or? Cause rotaries are pretty light… Does anyone know the comparative weights of an SR20DET or a KA24DE vs a 13B?
13B weighs approximately 180lbs. and sits behind the front axle. The car has an exactly 50/50 weight distribution with this setup. I think with an SR in the front and a few things moved to the back you’d probably end up with a 52/48 ratio or something around there, more comparable to the weigh distribution of the S13.