i got a fc that i want to do somthing with
what motor should i slap in it?
v8?
ka?
sr?
13b?
i got a fc that i want to do somthing with
what motor should i slap in it?
v8?
ka?
sr?
13b?
13B cosmo!
check out the latest Super Street, they have a feature on an 86’ RX7 with the same motor u have, it has 750 HP!!!
Drop a 350 in it.
SOOO cheap to work on… SOOOO simple… carbs = easy = cheap
OR do a turbo 375
EDIT: I have a spare VG30DETT sitting around… 8)
if its a TII, part it out, i can guarentee youll make money.
or do the 350 swap
it has t2 everying in it from my t2 parts car
im thinking ghetto turbo v8 or
mabye rebuild the cosmo
anyone have pics of the fc in superstreet?
what do u want the car to do man!? (I always say this dont I?) Anyway, depends on your goals!
v8 would be pretty damn cool
but
so would 13b with some mad turbo…
up to you…
dunno its just sitting there waiting for somthing crazy
i got a s13 for daily driver so this can be insane
any insane ideas shoot!
im thinking mabye 5.0 v8 big turbo and auto with shift kit
but i dunno i have a hard time making my mind up :twisted:
750 froma 13BRE?? no … if is 750hp then the cars running a mid tunned 20BRE. I run a 13BRE and 500hp is about as much as you’d run out of it and still have it idle below 1200rpm, streetable and not use 100C octane fuel.
Theother engines are fine, but if you EVER try to resell it you’ll never do it, not for even close to what you put into it, rx7 are rotory and as such are bought up by mostly rotorheads like me. seeing a psiton engine in it will pretty much keep it on the resale block for years… ( a V8 in guelph was originally ~$5000 2.5 years ago… it sold late last year for ~$1000 ) … I can get you a JDM TII engine for your FC with tranny and ECU for ~ $1000 +/- 15% if you have an S5 (89-91 ) then you can just about drop in a S5 TII with no more then it takes to dump a SR20 into a 240. if you haven a S4(86-88) then you need to a few extra things but all are easy … ideally you don’t even need to upgrade the tranny as they bolt right on to OEM Na trannys, the difference being , if you plan to go to a higher boost you’ll want to upgrade the tranny… the other option is a REW ( FD ) these are the TT motors that pump out an additional 25 extra hp over the BT ( TII) motors … the advantage is they can be upgraded to a single and will take a bit more boost and rpm’s can go a bit higher becuse of reduced rotor weight. The cosmo ( BRE) is avaialble in to forms as listed above the 13BRE 2 rotor and the 20BRE 3 rotor ) both are TT and both combine elelments of the BT and REW motor as it was a bridge motor for the company, the BRE cosmo motors are desinged differently, because the car it was in was a fairly heavy sport sedan the engine was designed to add torque to the baseline numbers… as such the ports are very large but also timed very differently witha good single turbo these can be built up with 30% more torque then a BT or REW even…
BT -~$1000
13BRE -~$1400
20BRE -~$6500
REW -~$3500
I have all of these availalbe right now if your interested. Unlike most places my people offer a DOA warrenty, if the engine is DOA then return it for a replacment.
piston engine wise… the drawback is the fact that the front axel is so short to the firwall that any 4 banger will ovehang the in front of the axel , this reduced the FC 51-49 weight split ( litterally it’a bater to the trunk issue for 50-50), taking away the weight balance is removing the main weapon of the FC. As for reliablity … well the most used modern engine for kit planes is the rotory becuse of modern matrials the weak link in the apex seals during detonation is pretty much eliminated . The avg TII or REW stock hp motor can last up to 250K km now,.rebuild kits are ~ $800 to $1000 candian with the rebuild costing ~$1000 however with the FD being produced into the 00’s a steady supply of replacments are always avaialble. ( In Japan the rotary and it’s parts are as common as SBC parts are in the midwest)
if you want to talk more about the FC let me know I’ve got two, PM me.
its a s5 gxl with full t2 drivetrain t2 tranny
im not sure about a 13bt … im thinking bigger than that i got a 13b re already i just need to rebuild it or i might just go v8 i dunno what should i do?
check pm’s rotorkami wa
302 HO.
You’ve probably seen this already but…cheap mounts and kits.
http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/
I was going to do this to my TII after the second motor, but I didin’t have time. Next year I’m buying my old car back and raping it with a 302 HO with a vortech blower.
The Buick Grand National engine supposedly fits too man.
Good luck with the project man.
Easy 8)
I hate american V8s with a passion. I’m not saying they’re bad, it’s a personal thing, I don’t like them. I’d reccomend you go with the 13BRE, cuz 20BRE is way too much money and anything but a rotary would ruin the weight balance of the car.
i thought you were selling it? i was the guy who PM’d you interested on rx7club.com…i’m still very interested.
if you’re not selling it please let me know so i can look around else where.
Avery Take Justin up on his offer of the VG30DETT! :twisted:
he’s sticking… smartly I might add, with a BRE… you V block pistons heads can keep em to yourself. some of us actually LIKE a 50-50 balanced car… 3 moving parts, better HP/L then ANY piston engine, a long block that weights little enough to walk around with from bench to bench confortably, a size that almost fits inside a large breadbox, comparitivley zero harmonics to a 4 banger … yeah I’ll trade that soon for V block… oh wait no…
How would a 302 mess up the weigh balance of the car. Strip some other crap off the car! Like AC (gotta go now), trim your front re-bar to 1/4 the size etc. Cut some metal out. It’s definitely not heavier than a VG30dett. A VG30et is light(an ddirty cheap and stink easy to make fast)…Dett is a behemoth.
Some kind of V-6 would be your best bet. RX-SHO anyone??
I’d probably go with the 302 or 350 avec boost. An old friend of mine wanted to convert his rx-7 to a drag car using an electic motor that would give him 1/4mi times around 9-10s.
Aluminum Heads, battery in trunk, Griffin Rad, Aluminum intake side, Custom aluminum shorty header. I’m willing to wager that it is going to be 52/48 or even 51/49 after this.
Aluminum Heads, battery in trunk, Griffin Rad, Aluminum intake side, Custom aluminum shorty header. I’m willing to wager that it is going to be 52/48 or even 51/49 after this.[/quote]
Don’t bet on it. The FC is 50.5/49.5 from factory, but the thing is the 13b is front-mid mounted (behind the front axle) AND weighs less than 300lbs. in complete longblock form. You can put another engine of comparable weight in (I believe the CA isn’t far off) and it will still upset the weight balance because it sits infront of the axle. More weight up front.
I’m sure, however, with enough money and know-how the 50/50 balance could be restored. Anything’s possible with money.
My turbo TII weighed considerably more than a Base model NA…
You’d be surprised how small a 302 really is once you strip it down and think design small. This stuff doesn’t cost an arm and a leg.
Have you ever priced out domestic parts as opposed to import stuff??? hahaha. What a world of difference.