i remember reading in Z forums numerous people saying they have NEVER seen a jdm swap run correctly on a Z…i mean too late now for saying anything like that cause the swap was already done…but i think there is just THAT much of a difference between the NA and TT Zs, they are totally different cars…good luck getting that beast running…im gonna say u already know what to do …flush that coolant, put in that fuel pump check that faggy compression on c-6 and take newman and just go over all the little gay wiring once again…the wiring harnesses on Zs are retarded and can come apart, mine will all the time and the car will just die…its gay, but simple to check :tup: good luck
printing thread now…going home shortly, going to mighty right after that, then out to the car to see what i/we can find out…will post news tonight if i have any…
ok so here’s what went down…
car wouldnt start, listened for fuel pump, didn’t hear a thing…pulled fuel line, tried to start, fuel came pouring out…put fuel line back up, car started and drove ok other than low boost, kicked into safety boost i assume of only 5psi…
get back, turn car off…try to turn back on, just turning, no firing up…same as before, so same as before, unhook that fuel line, pump, spill a bit into gatorade bottle, hook back up, and it starts…
go to mighty…turn it off, try to turn back on a bit later, wouldnt obviously…try the same trick, but try pumping and pumping clutch to purge pump (joe and pat said that’s what it does…never heard of that before though)…and it still doesnt start, so decide to unhook that line again, and when we do, fuel starts shooting out, not just coming out, but like a steady pour from the engine…plug it back up, give it a minute…try to start…nothing…joe gets behind the wheel, dont know what he did different but it started for him after a try or two…
while running start my way home, obviously being followed by a bunch of guys to make sure everything’s ok…on harlem, it dies…i think i pushed in the clutch, dont remember…and revs just went to zero…pull to the side and push into a lot…at first line feels empty, but when joe tried to take the line off, it started leaking a bit so we assumed it woulda sprayed again like at mighty…let it sit for a bit…tried to start…just turning…waited a bit more…now it starts…get it home without a problem (staying out of boost obviously) and park it, let it cool, and come inside…
we think its the fuel pump…it got too hot and shut itself off on harlem…hence the stall…and the reason for low/safety boost is the computer realizing it’s not getting enough fuel for that kinda boost…
and as far as the bad head gasket, it’s doubtful according to the 2 new opinions i got on it, because the oil looks fine after over 100 miles, and if i had a blown head gasket for 100 miles or more, the oil wouldn’t look fine…coolant is brown and gross due to the block sitting for so many years…i get the whole system purged this week then we’ll see…
as far as the low compression on the cylinder, piston ring was the new suggested problem…
edit: oh yeah…and a big :tup: to the guys that came out to my work to help figure it out, and all the guys that followed me home to make sure everything was cool…
glad to hear shit is going somewhat better
get that tt pump in and let us know :tup:
A ring job would be highly recommended if you have bad compression in one cylinder
while i’m replacing the rings i might as well do the head gasket…but my biggest problem is finding somebody willing to do it pretty much as a friendly favor…god knows i cant do that kinda job, and not many people can, or if they can, even want to because the car is such hell to work on…and the swap drained my cash flow to the point where i might just have to take it off the road again and save up over winter to get it done…unless somebody on here wants to be nice???
dude good luck, thats a HUGE job for someone to take on pro bono.
A dying pump explains why it won’t start unless you dump gas out of the line. It takes a pump a lot more power to start against a head pressure than it does to maintain pressure after it starts against no head pressure. I work with pumps all day long (granted they’re gas pumps and not fluid pumps) and unless I’m working with a really strong compressor I always design a head pressure relief valve into the system.
So, yeah it seems like you’ve got a weak pump that can’t start against full upstream pressure.
I was just thinking, you oughta get a Fox Mustang with a blown motor for cheap and drop a new engine into it. After this project I bet you could do that in your sleep! 
yeah, noway anyone will do a HG for nothing… its a huge job, definitely have to pull the motor. you could probably do rings without pulling the motor, but it would be a huge pain in the ass.
Honestly, you’ve done a motor swap, you NEED to expect problems like this. Giving up after something like this is rediculous. You’re putting a square peg in a round hole, you’re going to have to hit that fucker with a mallot a bunch of times before its through.
overlooking things like a fuel pump is a bad idea… even if its not the cause, it should be replaced, so replace it :tup:
and yea, good luck on the free HG job :lol:
yea when me and pat got there we figured it was fuel. what it seams like is the pumps on its last leg. what i found weird with this car is the fuel pump doesnt prime until u push the clutch in. the reason y it doesnt start after he stops is andy lets it idle to let the turbos cool down the pump heats up then it doesnt wanna go again. my question is to onyx or any other 300z guy. would limp mode only be 5 psi. usually in limp mode it wouldnt allow it to boost right? which this thing strikes me odd. all i was doing to start it andy was pumping the gas pedal to allow air in. what we need to do when u get ur pump is spray some ether in ur throttle bodies and clean them out. but thanks to psychop for coming out with us. also there is no head gasket issue in me and pats opinnion. the oil is not milkey and the coolant is just rusty from the fact that the motor has never been flushed iam going to flush the coolant thursday. there is also no way anyone in there right mind would do a headgasket on that for free. u would have to pull the motor due to there is 100% no room
ummm…im in the process of doing my head gasket right now, and you do not have to pull the motor to do it. Im not saying its easy and i sure as shit aint doin it as a friendly favor, but if u have some time on ur hands and a lot of making tape and markers to mark all the shit u take apart, its fairly do-able but very time consuming
HAHA
Free headgasket job.
lol
How to mod your car :
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Figure out what you want your car to do.
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Figure out how much you want to spend.
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Multiply final number from 2) by 2.5
theres less room in a tt
theres less room in a tt
Im very familiar with the bay in the car…i couldnt imagine there not being enough room to get the head off the block, may just involve more dissassembly…as i said before its time consuming and involves lots of marking every single thing u take a apart.
.
yeah, i guess you could do it, but it would be such a pain in the ass. There is so little room between the firewall and heads…
Damn Nissans…
Good luck man. Project cars always end up costing a lot. Just grin and bear it…
a truer statement never made
point is imo theres no sign of A BAD HEAD GASKET