I’ve got a friend with a '93 Jeep YJ with the I4 motor.
He’s having starting issues. The car cranks over, and sounds like it is supposed to start. But it won’t It’ll just keep turning over.
For a period of time, if you left the key in the ACC position after a few minutes the CEL would turn on, and you would hear a click under the hood, and then the car would start up.
But now, the jeep won’t start at all.
Jeep people, point us in the right direction. Thanks in advance.
hmmm, sounds exactly like the problem i was having with mine. is it 1 click, or a succession of clicks? is the fuel pump turning on before the clicking or after? could be the pump relay (cheap) or part of the computer (expensive).
Well, When I was there last nite the car would just keep turning over but not firing. So should he try replacing the relay first-off then move on the the ECU?
Also, give some direction as for the location of the parts. Both of us have no knowledge of Jeeps more or less.
Edit- Also, I just talked to my friend, and the noise from under the hood was more of a humming sound for a few seconds, and then the Jeep would start. Now it doesn’t do that anymore and it is impossible to get it started.
well i honestly have no idea if the 4 and I6 are the set up the same way in the engine bay, tell your friend to buy the repair manuals.
the relay box is located right near the battery, and there should be a diagram showing the location of the pump relay, its about a $10 part, worth a shot
but as i asked in the 1st post, is the pump turning on when he 1st puts the key into ACC? its an audible sound.
here are my thoughts:
if its the relay:
you would turn they key to ACC and hear nothing under the hood, and the pump wouldnt turn on
if its likely the ECU:
you would turn the key to ACC, you would hear the relay clicking rapidly for about 3 to 5 seconds, and then the pump would turn on.
you said it doesnt make a sound under the hood anymore, tell your friend to try this:
turn the key to ACC, wait a few seconds (at least 5, more than 10 really isnt necessary) then turn it off, repeat multiple times and see if you can replicate the sound, if its a hum, then idk, if its a rapid click, have the ECU diagnosed.
im kinda tired, i dont know if all of that makes sense, but as i said its likely either the relay or the ECU.
Sounds like something with the fuel pump / fuel delievery
do you smell gas?
perhaps you may have flooded the engine.
fuel pump is mechanical, it wouldnt throw a CEL. and i may not be that smart, but wouldnt it be pretty damn hard to flood a FI engine? and im pretty sure 93’s werent carbed.
it def is a delivery problem, i just dont think its either of those 2. if its throwing a CEL i think its most definately electrical.
Uh, a FI engine can flood… very easily…
The CEL should be on when your car is in the on position anyway.
^^ i wouldnt know, ive never flooded one
and…
there are no lights that come on on a YJ dash when the key is an acc, i can take a picture if youd like 
ASD (auto shut-down) Relay. It’s under the hood in the relay box. Sounds like the relay coils are weak or just a shitty connection at the relay. Take it out. Clean the terminals in the box and put in a new relay. It’s a standard bosch style SPDT relay.
The CEL comes on for bulb check and then turns off in chrysler products. And acc position isn’t key on. Run position is key on
I was about to say. Thank you.
this might be stupid, but are u positive that its fuel related? have u checked for spark?, if its not electrical then follow above. just a suggestion
thats what i meant, its hard going from cars where acc=run to a seperate acc and run.
Uh, what?
huh? i have a feeling im not making much sense in this thread. im maDDD messed up on meds this week.
Yeah, i don’t get it
There is should be 4 positions
The position when the key is just resting in the ignition
then ACC
then ON/RUN which is where it goes after you crank it into the :
Start position.
ok let me try again…
insert key into ignition, you can either:
turn they key towards (counterclockwise) you for ACC position, or turn the key away from you (clockwise) for ON/RUN position, then START position. meaning, that the ACC and ON/RUN positions are seperate, although the ON/RUN position will obviously let you use the radio and shit still.
ok. so uh… how does what you replied to my post make any sense…
lol steve-o I think you should lay off the nyquil and beer lol
Ok, so when the car is in the ON POSITION, will anything click after a while?
RacerX is probably right