Ahmed, I am not trying to get people on my “side” to gang up on you. What you say directly affects how people look and think of you.
And to most people, they think that you are an idiot.
Ahmed, I am not trying to get people on my “side” to gang up on you. What you say directly affects how people look and think of you.
And to most people, they think that you are an idiot.
Looking at your specs on Zilvia, I can’t help but think your car is an overengineered grocerry getter :o
Where do you come up with this???
It says right there, in my opinion. I’ve tried all of the above and the initial “stop” feels the same. The only difference is in how much heat each of the set ups can take before you boil your brake fluid.
I only say that because most people think that getting bigger brakes will make your car stop faster.
There is a definite difference in stopping power between those configurations, but there may not be a difference in applied stopping power. The stock brakes can lock up your wheels just fine from a decently high speed on normal tires. When you get into more rubber and stickier rubber, there starts to be a difference.
There’s four factors that I’m aware of in determining initial brake force. There’s force applied, you can calculate this from your pedal pressure if you have the ratio of your brake booster. There’s coefficient of friction of the pad, there’s area of the pad, and there’s the moment arm based on the force center of the pad, to the centerpoint of the hub.
IMO, pad is the best variable to play with. Most OEM pads, have high coefficient of friction, but fade badly at higher temps. This gives you great initial bite, but decreased performance in repeated stops. Repeated stops are a non-issue on the street though, so this is fine. Most high performance pads will NOT give you bite as good as your OEM pad, and will even suck until you get them heated up nicely.
Going out to drink now, more on this later
Holy shit Ant, put some line breaks in your posts :ugh:
I really hope you’re being sarcastic.
No rike warr of tex?
I dunno, I type in the quick reply, so I can’t see my whole post, and the thoughts seemed connected, so I didn’t want to separate them
“I guess I epically fail at overusing your IQ over vocabulary greater than you’re used to reading.”
That is quite possibly the most retarded sentance I have ever read.
Proof that ESL classes don’t make you an english major, and reading automotive forums doesn’t make you know what your talking about.
rofl
ahmed, what road course have you driven on?
ahmed, how did you fade stock brakes in traffic?
oh and…
ahmed, where were you published?
Sooooo, is he banned yet?
+1
Let him respond to mikes post.
Then ban.
+2
No reply from ahmed?
I really don’t see the big deal with this guy…he’s not that annoying. What is annoying is when people confuse me for him lol. I saw Mark at Bing’s meet and made sure he knew I was a diff person.
Retarded thing though is that I have a stock auto KA as well :S…but that’s because I’m broke lol.
Onto the brakes stuff, I upgraded my rims and put some nice W rated tires on. My brakes get really hot after a few high speed stops, my rims can barely be touched. I don’t notice fade, but man do the brakes get hot. I’m hesitant to upgrade my brakes to 300ZX brakes because I don’t know how large of a spacer I’ll need to clear them because I have +47 offset SE-R rims, and also the brake bias will probably be fucked. I need to do more research and talk less :).
Good day all.
i have stock brand new blank rotors
with good pads
with dot 5 brake fluid
stock lines
on my silvia
and i have never experienced brake fade EVER