starts easily… idles uneven, smooth for a few sec then backfires a bit(popping exhaust sound) and idles rough. then smooths back out, under acceleration the motor feels like its missing, backfires(power surges) until i hit 5000rpm then its all gravy…
im gettin new plugs and wires soon, next day or so. i guess ill pop in a new fuel filter… i can hear my fuel pump priming when i turn the key to on(lil noisy, are they all like that?)
fuck… where do i start to diagnose this???
if you’re doing plugs and wires, you may as well do your cap and rotor assembly($30). If that doesn’t do it, it could be a vaacume leak.
check the vacuum,and same with the maf
what else should i check or replace while im @ it? its my daily so i need it to be reliable.
just got a new battery, starter is not that old, alt is not that old either
i kind of had the same problem when i got my 1st s13. its most likely the vacuum of maf.does it back fire everytime you shift gears? and does it go past 80kph?
oh check the firing order to.
does someone have a downloadable factory technicians manual? not the shitty ones that you buy at crappy tire but the real ones the dealerships get…
-vacuum line
-maf sensor
-firing order
ill let you guys know later tonight
sounds like its awesome. who the fuck doesnt like backfiring?
^^^
your catalytic converter hates it!
what catalytic converter? lol
^lol
But seriously, if your car is backfiring, you’re probably running rich as hell and not getting the best gas mileage or power. Fixing that will pay itself off infinitely with future gas cost reduction + increased driving pleasure. Also, less fuel will cross the piston rings and mix with the oil. (less frequent oil changes, less engine wear etc…)
Backfiring is not cool. lol
i would do some quick sensor tests with a multimeter. tps, maf, map. depending on what you have. the reason it runs fine at 5000rpm is because the computer senses an 80% throttle, this is taken as WOT and sensor readings are ignored
check your exaust to see if its leaning up on the diff… mine was… that was making a nefty sound… if thats ok check your fuel regulators and fuel pump… or could be a ecu fuck up… but start with the free stuff… could be that… saves all that money if its not needed to be fixed and if your broke… good luck with that
check resistance of your coolant temp sensor. i find a lot of people tend to overlook this? it’s $40 bucks from the dealer. #22630-51E02 is the latest level part no.
ok, so did plugs, patched the ignition wire for the time being,fuel filter, cap and rotor… i havent driven it yet since im shredding all the unnecessary wieght and patching all the rusty holes in the floor… but ill keep you guys updated.
thanks for the help
problem went away for a day and now its back!
to recap…
starts and runs fine, rough idle under 1700rpm (whole car shakes!)
after 1700 its smooth (thats just reving in the driveway, need to torque everything down but its raining now)
When the problem starts, try hitting your MAF and see if it goes away. I’m not joking.
how do you check for vacuum leaks??? its not like a pressure leak where i could spray some soapy water on it…
and i did clean out my maf sensor, but it was already clean as far as i could tell!
What did you use to clean your MAF? I hope you did NOT touch it.
Spray intake cleaner over suspected area’s of a vacuum leak. You will hear the rpm change.