Rings don’t seat immedediately, and breaking them in very rich is not good.
Any logs yet?
yes they do, breaking the raised edges off the crosshatching happens almost instantly on startup when the motor comes up to temp. typically a proper breakin to finally “seat” the rings under load by doing short 3rd gear highway pulls does the final step, most of the time the motor is broken in by the time you get to the highway to do the pulls.
You will not gain any kind of significant compression once the motor is initially heat cycled and put under load once.
“The first 50 miles (or so) are absolutely critical for the rings to seat, which can be achieved only by varying the load applied on the engine. Once the fresh crosshatching turns dull, there’s nothing that would make the rings seat later. The worst one can do is running the engine at continous speed and very low load (highway or idle). By the time one gets to the location where he does the WOT runs (while occassionally applying 1/2-3/4 open throttle during the trip), the engine is almost completely broken in. The WOT runs just finish up the break-in.” - Well known DSM engine builder (Well known engine builder in general)
oh goodness… yep, its going to smoke.
No
No, fyi tony’s integra was broken in similarly. If it smokes it’s more than likely because of my 80psi+ oil pressure at anything over 3k and that i gapped my rings a little large.
hmmm
technically we have no idea how rich his engine is. theres no wideband hooked up yet.
yes my motor was broke in on the rich side. compression is dead on and motor feels really strong. Granted Im only on half the injector Kurt is though so I can see maybe 1600cc injectors just jetting fuel into the motor could cause wash. Guess we’ll just have to wait and see
I’m taking out 80% of the fuel for those runs
1600CC???
i do believe thats what he has in there…
I ran 1000’s :dunno:
I considered 1600’s, but didn’t like what I saw when it came time to idle.
With the 1000’s though, the car idled great, albeit a little lumpy :bigthumb:
throw up a log
last I checked his car idles at about 1200-1300rpm
idling is for street cars :kekegay:
why does it matter what it logs? I already told you i’m working on a misfire fix, looks like those coil sticks aint so hot.
The people worried about breaking. Not being a hardass like I usually am but how many motors have you rebuilt. I’ll give a quick rundown of the motor, how I broke it in, and how it is working currently.
1990 D16. Re rign and rebearing job to fix major oil blowby issue (classic of older soft ring hondas). Brekin consisted of starting the motor, doing a quick visual for leaks, then doing ebrake assisted burnouts. Gave the car back to my sister and ran fine till 220K when she was totaled.
1991 GST. Rering + rebearing as above. Breakin consisted of more burnouts and two 0-130mph pulls for the first 10 mins of that motors life. Perfect compression ran great until sold.
2006 Evo. Didn’t go above 5500 rpm’s as per mitsu recommendations. Ran the car to 5500rpm’s in 5th gear on the on ramp out of the dealership. Did many racing pulls racing my friend on the way home from ohio. Motor works good no major oil usage. When I put the car on the wideband I found that it ran 10:1 AFR in boost and even high 9’s up high. So much for “washing” the rings out.
“Washing” the rings out happens at idle and low loads when the motor can’t burn off the extra fuel IMO.
5 years ago my saying about dsm’s was “if it can hold a steady idle and not stall its fast”. A good idle and no stalling meant that you had a slow car on your hand. Theirfore a round 1200rpm idle just brings be back to the old days, its fuckin cool.
They might be thinking about a carb’ed engine. If you don’t have the timing right or something everytime you hit the gas the accelerator pump dumps fuel and then you get cylinder wash down. I don’t feel like looking threw the whole thread but did you mention anything about not using a carb?
Kurt, post up the log, I’m interested to see it.
that’s what i logged for the run, what else were you looking for?