I ordered up some Eibach Sportline springs. Will be installed on 350z roadster. They claim a 1.2" drop. I am finding now that as I dig through the forums, that they are settling in more towards the 2" range. That is a big drop and a big difference from the 1.2" I was expecting when I ordered them. I drive the car every day. So, a few questions.
Am I going to be battling to keep the car from bottoming out?
My car is a bit heavier than coupes, is this gonna make the car sit even lower?
Is it neccessary to replace the shocks? If I have to, I will, but didn’t really want to have to do that right away.
Is it neccessary to install camber kits as well? From what I have read, the rears will get pretty bad on a 2" drop, the fronts won’t be AS bad.
What do you reccommend? I am not so good with figuring this stuff out. Maybe I should just put them back up for sale and go with Tein Basics, would that be a better POA? dmoffitt? hoping you will chime in.
yeah, not to sound like a cheap asshole, but I was hoping to just go with a set of springs to give the suspension a bit more of an aggressive feel/look while not spending a whole lot.
depending how many miles you have on the original struts will determine when the will need to be replaced, the shorter springs will definitely increase the wear on the struts.
I put H&R springs on my wrx with the stock struts and my camber/alignment wasn’t messed up at all. FWIW
Id say to do it “Properly” you should go with new shocks, the stiffer springs will beat up OEM shocks, and have to be replaced often, and camber kits as well, 2" Drop should be more than enough to throw the align. specs off, even if its the slightest bit (may be quite a bit in the rear actully) it still Isnt oem specs and therefore isnt quite the way it should be, not to mention the tire wear. there are some things on my car that that I chose to do the cheap way, things that IMO If I ever found my self in a modified car again I wouldnt repeat regardless of cost, so Id say tein basics is the better choice, especially for a DD just my.02
actually, it’s the shorter springs (lowering springs) that cause the damage.
With the shorter springs, the shock is already down in travel even more (think of it as having an extra 500lbs in the car), and will now bottom out more, wearing out the stock shocks.
Lower springs would mean they’re in a different location, out of the optimal and intended range of motion. I always thought thats why stock shocks fail when you slap on lower springs.
Possibly, I did think that for a while untill i was told different buy many people, also I ran My GC’s with OEM and it felt really shitty, as apposed to my KYB GR-2’s which are smooth and feel acctully less bumpy.
yes, it is the shorter springs that cause the issue.
As far as having it be a stiffer spring, The factory springs are relatively stiff to begin with. Not like were talking about going from stock civic springs to stiff aftermarket. The change in stiffness shouldn’t be TOO bad.
2" drop isnt a big deal, you can rock that hardcore without any real issues. The stock struts SHOULD be replaced, but they should do the job for a while…
Your stock struts will definitly work for a while but in the long run having to install the springs twice, once on stock struts, and once on aftermarket will cost more. Also you’d have to pay for 2 alignments if you go this route. It’s always hard to tell how long they’ll last. Some may last 150k miles some may last 10k miles. It’s your call.
shorter and stiffer springs will both cause a factory strut to wear out faster and ride like shit in the mean time… The strut will be living under a much greater stress because of the decrease in travel. So you need a stiff enough spring to avoid bottoming out the strut — but that stiff spring will also kill the strut by taking it far outside of its design range. So you lose either way.
does it make any difference that these are proggressive rate springs? That means the beginning of their travel will be more of a stock feel, then once they start to travel in a bit, will get stiffer.
a progressive spring is nice for street applications because you get a soft response followed by a harder response by the spring. The big downside is that the springs are less predictable because they don’t respond in a linear manor so when you are driving hard around a turn you have to adjust your steering and throttle inputs to account for the spring having multiple personalities. Then you have to factor the overall chassis - you have 4 of these springs so as the weight transfers across them the math increases.
the 350z has a very nice factory suspension design, but because it’s got a lot more parts than a car like my evo (upper control arms etc), you have a lot more suspension geometry problems when you lower it… you can ask dmoffitt more on that topic.
I feel like I know very little about suspension science, but the more I learn and understand, the more I realize why people spend so much money and time…
yeah, I agree. I have to admit though. This is partially an asthetic modification. I want the car to handle a little better, but I also want it to look good. I am also not really big on spending huge amounts of money on my car. I think what I will end up doing is tossing these springs on and ordering a rear camber kit. From digging around on my350z.com, it seems the general consensus is that for the drop I will see, it is needed or else tire wear will be an issue.
Performance wise, I rarely do auto-x events, and in the time I own the car, maybe will get one or two track days in. So overall, there is no need for this suspension to be a true performance setup. However, I do NOT want the suspension to be any worse than it would be in stock form. That would just be retarded.