Ya. I have a rattle and it sounds like the one that my upper chain guard was makeing. So I took that off a while ago and the sound went away. well now it is back and I think it is the bottom guard.
Has anyone taking one off and how hard is it???
Please help it is driving me nuts.
you can’t take off the lower chain guides. You need those. One is for tensioner other is just a simple guide. The lower ones are important. You can only remove the upper ones minus the tensioner which I would keep.
As for working on lower timing chain, set an afternoon aside, its not easy. You need to remove the oil pan and all pulleys as well as the timing covers. Then you need to reset timing marks in correct place when installing new chain.
Andrew
crappy, Hmmmmmmm
I really want to find out what this rattle is
If you plan on taking off the oil pan make it a weekend job. You have to rais the engine up about 5" to get the pan off (to clear the pump, and bottom frame brace)
just pull damn thing out, thats what I do :lol:
just pull damn thing out, thats what I do :lol:[/quote]
Can’t really do that. Especially since you have to put it back in with RTV around the edge. I had my motor jacked up, and I still got a little bit of RTV on my crank girdle when I slid my pan back in.
If you want to find out what the noise is, take a weekend to pull the pan out and the timing cover off (or 4-5 hrs if you’re Matt, and you’ve done it like 6 times. 8) ) Then you’ll have full access to all your guides so you can inspect and replace them. Also, you can do what I did and weld a barb fitting into the pan for an oil return line if you ever plan on going ka-t (you can plug up the barb in the mean time).
just pull damn thing out, thats what I do :lol:[/quote]
Can’t really do that. Especially since you have to put it back in with RTV around the edge. I had my motor jacked up, and I still got a little bit of RTV on my crank girdle when I slid my pan back in.
If you want to find out what the noise is, take a weekend to pull the pan out and the timing cover off (or 4-5 hrs if you’re Matt, and you’ve done it like 6 times. 8) ) Then you’ll have full access to all your guides so you can inspect and replace them. Also, you can do what I did and weld a barb fitting into the pan for an oil return line if you ever plan on going ka-t (you can plug up the barb in the mean time).[/quote]
I had no problems. pull the damn engine out it only takes few hours to pull. Do whole timing chain kit. It takes a day to pull, fix and have running just intime for dinner. I hate fighting with the engine in the car. So I just pull it.
Trust me I’ve done it. More than once :x
just pull damn thing out, thats what I do :lol:[/quote]
Can’t really do that. Especially since you have to put it back in with RTV around the edge. I had my motor jacked up, and I still got a little bit of RTV on my crank girdle when I slid my pan back in.
If you want to find out what the noise is, take a weekend to pull the pan out and the timing cover off (or 4-5 hrs if you’re Matt, and you’ve done it like 6 times. 8) ) Then you’ll have full access to all your guides so you can inspect and replace them. Also, you can do what I did and weld a barb fitting into the pan for an oil return line if you ever plan on going ka-t (you can plug up the barb in the mean time).[/quote]
I had no problems. pull the damn engine out it only takes few hours to pull. Do whole timing chain kit. It takes a day to pull, fix and have running just intime for dinner. I hate fighting with the engine in the car. So I just pull it.
Trust me I’ve done it. More than once :x[/quote]
Oh, you meant pull the motor. I thought you meant just pull the pan without jacking the motor, which is impossible. :lol:
Ya pull it out it would be alot easer.
Yes it would be… if your garage is bigger then a mouse’s ass. You know it’s bad when your legs are fully vertical against the wall as your working under the car.
Ugh I remember doing a swap like that… and it was only to do a worthless SOHC :evil:
hmm, it is “easier” to do it out of the car, but, i can do it just as fast in the car. It’s really not that hard. the biggest pain is draining the coolant so you don’t get it everywhere when you crack the frontcover seal. Besides that. make sure the motor is at tdc #1 when you take the timing/distributer out, or it’s fun trying to set the timing.
You will need to pull the crank pully aswell so either go to princess auto and pay 12$ for one or rent one from CT. Other than that, it’s all straight forwardm and you really cant fuck up…that being said i did so be careful with the front cover oil seal, if you get the keyway stuck in the groove on the crank shaft, you’ll leak more oil than burn gas :oops:
have fun.
and pete, thats 4-5 hours to rip it down and be back out driving, get that rite 
Man this seems like so much work and I am not even sure if that is the problem
Anything involving engine work is alot of work.
Did you Take the Side Timing Chaing Guide out Beside the Dizzy?
If not that’s your problem
No, I do not belve I took that one out.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
lets hope that is it. does anyone have a pic Of what one this is.
Yes Yes I Do…
Nice diagram Adam 
I bet thats what it is. That upper chain is so tight already there really isn’t any need for those 2 guides.
Andrew.
That second one looks like a bitch to remove.