Doing a mild build this winter in my gsr. Using an LS crank Manley rods and CP pistons. ok so i have everything tore appart ready to go to the machine shop. I do have a few questions on some things. 1. I have decided to go with CP 9:1 pistons but do i need to order pistons for a gsr or an Ls since im using Ls crank and rods?? 2. Will i need LS Crank/rod bearings or GSR?? 3. What components will the machine shop need to balance the bottom end…obviously block,crank,rods,pistons…anything else? Thanks ahead of time if its good input 
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Buy pistons for an LS, since the wrist pin configuration on the LS rod is different than VTEC pistons.
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LS bearings are wider than GSR’s, but both can be used in an LS block…GSR bearings have a better anti-friction coating and tend to withstand more abuse than any of the other Honda bearing variants (for b-series anyway)
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Machine shop will want the entire bottom end and rotating assembly. That means all of it. You’ll want to have your properly clearance bearing and everything else sorted out before they’ll touch it.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914
I believe LS according to this post, but they’re not using CP’s.
im using a gsr block
are the ls and gsr block the same bore size?
rods need to match the crank pistons should match the rod, but essentially all B series pistons are the same granted the obvious differences…there is no difference in any b series motor except b20 on bore size they are all 81mm.
and to add to dyingwish on bearings ls bearings are bi metal and vtec bearing (gsr, b16, etc.) are tri metal
got ya thanks
Whats everyones thoughts on bore threshold on stock sleeves and about 30lbs of boost
none, i wouldn’t run more then 15lbs on stock sleeves with forged internals if you want to drive it for any amount of time
i dont drive this car more than 1500 miles a year and its mostly at the track soo longevity isnt the issue. There are tons of Hondas running that amount of boost reliably. Jeff Evans made over 600whp on a stock sleeved b18 and it lasted for more than 2 seasons of racing.
For me $1000 extra to do it right? It cost like 700-800 in rings and bearings and machine shop so I really dont want to put on together then pop a sleeve then Dish that all out again for it do pop agian.
Not all blocks are built to the same standards just remember that.
I would sleeve agian for Big power
BTW 30 psi on that turbo if it not BB the turbo will shit out within 40 passes. I have been there
yea i hear ya i guess but i just dont have the extra 1000 bux, and it will be around thirty probably more like 25ish
on high boost that is…which ill only run at the track so ill cross my fingers:x:
still over the line for stock sleeves, unfortunately.
i guess we will find out then
If your are dead set on boosting that high, do not bore over stock…that’ll only take more ticks off the time bomb.
just curious why your set on running so much boost? You don’t need that much to go fast
already made 365 on stock block and bottom end on pump gas, was going back to get a conservative race gas tune by Evans and was garanteed 500whp on my setup… pump tune wasnt fast enough! thats the easiest way i can explain it. Then i Came across a killer deal on a LS crank and manley rods and pretty much traded them for labor. Now im in a middle of a build swapping these new parts in plus new pistons and came accross a few questions. Basically what I am finding out is there are plenty of people running this setup somewhat safely and the key is a GOOD TUNE! And the ones with good tunes were def not time bombs!
you said it! 
well goodluck with it and props to you for not having the typical smart ass reply lol