You are definately correct about the quality of the tune, and how it’s affect reliability…and Evan’s is more than capable of delivering. Good luck with it, can’t wait to see it happen.
dynapak
hater :hsugh: 
90% of all evans tunes are on c16 no street gas which is another reason he makes the numbers he does and runs that much boost to stalk motors
yes but not me i have to be different im going ethanol:nuts:
ill keep you posted right now the block is at the machine shop and i should be making a tune date here in the next few weeks…dynapak whats that mean joe??? you mad someone is breaking into your realm lol…now only if i could drive…
:bigthumb:
what does boring with a torque plate mean?
From Stangnet…
The torque plate is usually a 1 inch thick plate, with the four cylinder openings. You bolt this thing down to spec, and then hone the block under the same conditions as having the head bolted down.
The theory on Torque plates is that when you bolt the head down on the block, the bolts “stretch” the cylinder into more of a square shape. Now this is VERY slight, and I have been told that the Chevy’s are worse for tweaking than Mopar or Fords.
You’re not going to gain HP really, it’s more about making the cylinder as round as possible under what would be the torque of the head bolts, instead of without.
You have a greater chance of rings sealing using it, but I have never used them, and all my engines sealed fine.
gotcha …thanks. Yea i didnt ask for it the machine shop said thats how he was going to do it and i didnt want to feel like an ass and be like whats that mean . Thanks for the info man
well an update from the machine shop. There was a scratch in #3 cylinder from dirt being drug by the ring so unfortainately i wont be able to keep the stock bore. He is only going 10 over so the scratch must have been minor.
Um, that’s almost 2.5 mm larger in diameter. 81.0 + 2.5 = 83.5 mm
i wonder if this affects honda motor even less because of the floating sleeves?
oh and i’ve never seen pistons come in .010 over always .020 over, i mean it would still be within oem specs for piston to wall clearance your piston to wall clearance is going to be a little bigger
10thousands = 83.5??
i dont know about how it affects it, but should i tell him to go .020 over?
my bad, .254 mm = 0.010 in I was in a hurry…bad math ensued.
so that’s 81mm bore + .254 mm over ~ 81.25 (my bad).
no prob im not that great at math either dont worry about it
Unless he already has your pistons he should not be boring/honing as the particular pistons you end up getting may have recommended piston-wall clearance specs that differ from what your bore sizing was honed to. Otherwise you may end up with pistons that are too small and have too much piston-wall gap (in which case you’ll need to get other pistons) or else not enough gap (in which case you will need to pay to have the cylinders rebored/honed).
ummm not to be a dick here but dont you think you shouldve have done a lil more research before you started trying to build a motor, and claiming all these ridiculous hp numbers :bash:
to add to steve’s comment, different pistons swell different when they heat up that’s why there may be different clearances for different types of pistons…like for examples my endyn pistons say that i need like .029-.03* piston to wall clearnace even though oem specs say that .010-.030 is within spec
and like steve said your machinist should be boring/honing your cylinders to fit your pistons not the other way around.
thats why here created a thread jackass so he can learn…ignore this ass bag ^^