But that small shot should be upping torque by at least 100 ft/lbs. Should be easy to notice.
Welp… I’m stumped. I cut the signal wire from my nitrous box to the relay today. I stripped both sides, and then went to town testing. I touched the relay side of the signal wire to the 12V battery post, and both solenoids opened and closed just fine. This tells me that the relay and all the engine wiring is fine.
I then put a multimeter on the control box side of the signal wire and tested to see what happens to the signal when I am within the window switch (TPS WOT switch disabled). When I was within the window, the signal wire was 12V. This means, that it should have been working the other night.
The only other thing it could be is the WOT switch, but that is part of the box, and according to the display, it is working. The only other thing I can think of doing is piercing the signal wire with the lead of the multimeter, and test the voltage as I am driving, both WOT and in the window. I don’t know what else to test :\
Welp… today is another day i guess! While troubleshooting, it just worked! The only thing I did was tap the relay in my hand, so maybe somehow it froze up inside? I just wanted to test the voltage to the solenoids under the conditions when the nitrous should work, to see what was happening, so I hooked up the fluke multimeter up, went for a test pull.
I started at 3k rpm in 3rd gear, and went WOT. When I hit 3500 rpm, the multimeter showed 12V… at the same time, I had infinite 3rd gear spin! Success! Johnny was riding shotgun with me, checking the LM-1 wideband, but he was distracted since it happened so fast, so we did another pull on Jefferson rd. I got on it, and it spun the entire time my foot was down, until I let off. Wideband read 11.4:1 , which is awesome.
This was just on pump gas, not my race gas tune. I figured not to push my luck today with that. Its cool though, my pump gas tune with nitrous is enough power to nuke the tires to oblivion in 3rd gear, where as my race gas tune doesn’t spin the tires at all in third gear. My race gas tune without spray traps 120, so this will be interesting 
Step 1: install $$ nitrous
Step 2: ???
Step 3: profit
Thanks for all the help to everyone who gave me advice, helped install it, etc…
–mark
I miss FWD.
cliff notes: did it work? higher mph rolling burnouts= yes
I pulled my plugs today to check and see how the motor is doing. To properly read a plug, they say you should turn your car off at the top of a gear, and immediatly pull them, but… you can still get a sense of what is going on in the motor by checking them anytime after. The plugs look no different post-nitrous than they did pre-nitrous. The ceramic is white from the meth keeping them clean, the ground is in good condition, and the tip is all there still :tup:
There are a few specs on the plugs, but maybe… 3 or 4 microscopic specs per plug, which I see on all of these cars. You can see bad detonation when there are actual chunks on the plugs, but this is just … whatever is in the chamber I believe. Either way, the motor seems to be healthy!
Next step is a set of LS1 ARP rod bolts to make sure the bottom end holds together. In the process, I may do a set of head bolts, or at least re-torque them, and do a new timing belt / check the tension of everything, etc… I want this motor to last as long as possible, or at least until I get a spare block.
–mark
cool dude.
now its time for swaybar lever mods to the back of the transmission to crush the control arms in the pavement and simultaneously charging lowrider airbags in the rear suspension to transfer the weight to the front so you can hook in 2nd 
I need to build a test car just to play around with these crazy ideas. i know the swaybar mod works. ive seen 1.60 60fts out of a daytona with this mod.
Brian
your post got me thinking; think it would be worth while to replace the rear sway bar end links with a threaded rod and a jam nut instead of the bolt and sleeve? it would be super easy to adjust to put more pressure on the front of the car, and freakin dirt cheap.
ill have to google it and see what i find 
I just make my rear suspension fully tight at the track. I was thinking of raising my back end to make it put more weight on the front. Do you think I could gain anymore with the rear sway bar adjustment?
Someone who knows drag racing suspensions might know better, but from corner weighting my car, increased height = increased weight. So raise the front.
usually drag means stiffening the rear as much as possible (ROT)… in RWD this allows the weight xfer to work by planting the rear.
I’ll assume that this is a bit counter productive for FWD, but I’ve never tried with a FWD car @ the track.
im gunna try it. i dont have adjustable suspension, just the mopar stg 1 lowering springs. hell, it would only cost like 9 bucks in crap from lowes.
i know lots of turbododge guys that have shimmed the front swaybar to make the weight more equal on the front tires. ive never seen the rear swaybar preloaded to do this but it might work. its easy enough that its worth a try.
you do want the rear suspension really stiff on a FWD car to prevent weight transfer. some guys limit the suspension travel up front too with straps. i know one guy that replaced his rear shocks (older turbododges have separate rear springs and shocks) with metal rods to make the rear solid. he said it worked but was scary for bumpy tracks.
Brian
You can see in my track videos, my car doesn’t squat at all in the back, its solid as a rock. I just want to get as much of my weight distribution as I can over the front. Especially since I am pulling out weight from up front.
–mark
get shock limiter straps up front and try to preload them. When i had my civic i would use ratchet strap tiedowns and i would ratchet down my front end on each side preventing front lift. This made an incredible difference. I used ratchet straps cause when i was done i just unhooked them and was back to stock.
:word: i remember seeing this
where are you wrapping them around?
haven’t really looked at this neon, but talking about trying something. On the gtp I just used some cable, and the U clamps, to lock the rear. Cheap $7-8, lightweight, cut some 1.7s.