:tup:
---------- Post added at 05:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------
So I connected my 12v 1A charger to the black power wire coming off EACH coil, and ground the neg to the frame. Still doesn’t want to go. At this point my assumption is overfueling from carb floats or coils which I will test shortly. Correct?
I don’t think 1 amp is sufficient to really prove anything. you can do both coil wires at the same time, too.
1a is all I have for a battery tender, and I did hook up both. I will see if my mechanic neighbor has a bigger charger and try again later. :tup: thanks for the help man. I believe the issue lies in carb float adjustment, but I have a guy coming over soon to give me a hand. Getting close…
Oh hey… so when I was looking around for a vintage moto helmet, I had reached out to a guy at work who rides dirtbikes and used to race. He said he may have a lead on an old Bell Moto 3 from his buddy. I didn’t put much thought into it after picking up that old Fulmer, but he just texted me today saying he came through. I’m coppin’ your style a bit Newman, but I couldn’t pass this up. It was next to nothing. He just dropped it off at my desk 5 min ago.
I guess i’m collecting crappy old helmets now… and no… don’t ask me to sell one just yet guys.
-Paul
I hate you. I’ve been hunting for an old Maxon helmet for WEEKS, or a Bell Moto4.
I don’t even want to tell you what I scooped this for. :snky:
if you told me, I’d have to kill you.
Old helmets…meh.
I like my RF-1000. I know for a fact mine can get run over by a bus and remain intact, those helmet…not so much.
Same color as well, that’s cute. What did you pick it up for if you don’t mind me asking? Want to sell your Fulmer?
lol, yeah yeah. I really want a white moto3 but I couldn’t pass this up. I don’t want to sell either at this point. I like the fulmer a lot and it’s in a bit better shape than this, but this bell fits a little less snug. I’ll figure out what I want to keep and let you know.
Moto, I hear you, but at the same time it’s safer than the damn skull caps or open face fggtry you see everywhere. I have a modern hjc as well. Maybe i’ll just firesale all 3 and buy an 1100.
---------- Post added at 02:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:47 PM ----------
I picked up new plugs on lunch, fired it up and let it run to temp. Here’s where i am at. I have some ‘lolipops’ I will be installing to help with backpressure, but other than that it seems like some carb work will get me dialed in. Right side plug still looks NEW with just a little bit of brown on it after I shut down from WOT. Left plug is black and sooty, which leads me to believe too rich… maybe from carb float level…
thoughts?
light brown is GOOD. sounds like left float is sticking or improperly set. have you replaced the float valves at all? I can’t remember if you did carb rebuild kits or not…
by the sound, you’re lean off idle…it’s struggling to get to the main jet. bump up your pilots one size and set mixture screws 1.5turns out and see how she revs…if you order pilots I’ll come by next week sometime and help you get her dialed in.
Just tore them down, cleaned vigorously, new gaskets, and re-jetted the main. I already checked the float valves, they still seal. I bet you anything I messed up the float setting on the left side during the rebuild. I’ll look to get some new pilots on order, at the very least, just to have.
As you read in this thread (http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.php?239594-Diagnostic-question-Old-POS-Honda-motorcycle.) I was having some issue with the bike which we tracked down to timing. The bike is running significantly better now.
So although I have a manual I printed out, the wiring harness in it was not as clear as i’d like it to be. I just found this color coded diagram online the other night, and what a BIG help. I went ahead and wired the headlight to be on high beam all the time (ie: whenever the ignition is on) and the taillight and brakelight function as they should. I was proud of myself to say the least, as wiring is my weakpoint.
I also picked up this switch to wire a horn and kill switch. This switch will be the only thing on the handlebars. As stated before, no turn signals.
Keep an out out this weekend for a picture blast and general update. In the meantime, all I need to do is go to the DMV tomorrow and get this bike on the road.
'bout time! we got Checko’s cb360 finished up for the most part last night and heard it run for the first time since tear-down…albeit on only once cylinder (haven’t messed with carbs yet, I suspect clogged carb is the culprit). We did up his wiring and all that’s left on it is brakes and permanently mount the seatpan.
yeah i’ve been traveling a LOT.
Edit: and just for shits check timing on Checko’s bike, lol. Did it run AT ALL before teardown?
I decided I wanted to run both gauges but I hated the ones I had so I poached the gauges off the CL175 in my garage. MUCH cleaner, smaller, and the tach actually works. The best part about it is that the CL175 tach has the neutral light built right in, so I was able to eliminate the big bulky indicator lights that the 450 originally came with. Wired that all up, and wired up the handlebar mounted kill switch.
On lunch today I was able to get to the DMV and get it on the road! All that is left now is to just keep sorting and cleaning things up so it runs 100%. Pictures to come soon.
Also; looking for opinions real quick. Tail mounted brake light and plate, or side mounted by the left side rear spring. Option 2 would be a lot easier. Thoughts?
Like this:
Or this:
I couldn’t bring myself to do option 1, despite the fact that it would have been much easier and I just want to ride the damn thing. It’s a crap-fe… not a brat, lol. Anywho, i’ve been super busy lately but snuck into the garage for 1 1/2 or so and whipped this up out of an old aluminum street sign that was in my parents shed for years.
It looks a little funky in this pic but it’s quare. I used rubber grommets in the bolts holes on the frame and stainless HW. Just need to drill the plate and brakelight holes and cut out the folding tail. Talk about garage engineering :rolleyes:
Front end all wired up and headlight working for the first time since i’ve owned it. I think the oem switch on the old high bars was corroded and not making connection.
Gauges off the cl175 with the neutral light built in. They look a little funky but I hadn’t tightened them down yet. Also, the tach bezel has a bit of a dent in it from god knows how long ago, but it adds to that survivor feel, so i’m not complaining. I love the 175 gauges on it. They are smaller, in better shape, and the neutral light being built in is a cool bonus.
-Paul
did you double check that the tach ratio on the CL175 gauges is the same as the cb450? honda tach ratios were all over the place…cb550 is 7:1, cb750 is 5:1 or 4:1, can’t remember…
All small Hondas UP TO 550 are 7-1 ratio 
