is the bike done yet? I’m only a couple hours worth of wrenching away from pounding the streets with the XS650 bobber…I’ve decided not to bother painting anything, going to ride the fuck out of it this summer and let it patina then just matt-clear it all next year…mistakes showing and all. budget style ratty.
I got the chain and sprocket it, so yes im a few hrs away. I also have a guy willing to let me borrow his chain rivet tool! I’ve got to take an unexpected trip home this weekend to see family, not like this weather is helping anyways.
Next week my friend, next week!
So, the bike runs and idles just fine and sounds mean. No video of that yet, but last night I ran the fuel lines (yes, yellow and pink lol), inline fuel filters as the tank is clean but not entirely perfect, and slapped the air filters on. The bike fired and idled second kick. Ran it to temp and let the heat wrap and engine burn off a bit, then shut it down and called it a night.
All that’s left is to finish the rear brake linkage and slap the wheel back on with the new 33 (2 down) sprocket. I’m not going to speedhole the rear drum brake cover for now.
Beyond that, I just need to clean up the front end electrical and button up a few odds and ends. Should be on the road de-bugging it next week.
-Paul
edit: I will also be picking up an offset 30 tooth for my shift side linkage. I am putting too much stress on the bolt with the way I have it now. The offset linkage with give me piece of mind.
So I got a little bit done today, now that’s ITS NOT SNOWING.
I picked up some stainless for the triple tree voids. I cannot justify the money on a billet triple, especially if I go inverted down the road. I also picked up some sheet aluminum that I will use to make a bracket to relocate the tach to the middle, and just use that gauge for now.
New EBC rear brake drums
Tire buttoned up with new 33t(2 down) rear sprocket. Should get me a bit on the top end.
Tire on and gold 530 o-ring chain on. Master link is rivet style. I also opted to just use the center stand as I couldn’t figure out an easy solution for the kickstand with the way my exhaust and rearsets sit. It just kept getting in the way. The center stand works just fine. I left that unpainted and haggard looking for now as opposed to painting it. It doesn’t bother me one bit as the bike has plenty of patina as is.
I am going to start the rear brake linkage tomorrow and sort start sorting out some of the front end electrical. My thought is to wire the high beam to be on all the time, have a kill switch mounted to the bracket for the tach, a neutral light, and that’s it. I’m getting there…
Ok, i’m growing a bit frustrated and at this point I have exhausted my level on mechanical and electrical knowhow as to why the bikes not running as it should. It is having one hell of a time kicking over and running well. At this point it seems to be fouling out the plugs and doesn’t want to get going.
- Clearly, the bike is breathing better. I have the uni foam filters on it, and a free flowing exhaust with NO ‘lolipops’ installed at the moment.
-I have not tested the voltage off the coils because I don’t know how :rolleyes:.
-I have rebuilt the carbs and upjetted the main jet while the pilot jet is stock, but I have not set my fuel float level and I could use some help here too. Not to mention the fact that I cannot for the life of me seem to find a new pilot jet for the bike ANYWHERE. I have the manual but the float level setting are incredibly vauge. - I have not yet wired the headlight switch, the kill switch, and basically everything else (front turn signals, horn, etc are not connected) which i’ve read could potentially rob the front end of the harness of proper voltage… but I can’t be sure without seeing whats coming off the coil.
-Voltage off the battery is a proper 12 volts.
I got it running and idling well 2 nights ago, and ran it to temp just fine… but now she won’t seem to go and I keep fouling plugs. I had an older well recommended guy stop over from sportriders last night and we didn’t get much done as far as diagnosis. It’s fucking damn close to being good, but i’m missing something and could use some more help.
Does anyone have any insight?
if you’re fouling plugs it’s a spark issue. to check voltage off the coils, use a multimeter at it’s connection to the harness and see if you’re getting 12v at the coils… also, set the plug on the block or pipe and hit the starter with the lights off and observe the color of the spark/flash…you want a good strong white.
It more of a yellow/orange.
EDIT: To a guy inexperienced using a multi-meter… what setting should I be on? I just picked up one on lunch.
“V” for volts.
Ok… and when connected will it read 12 through it constant? Or only when it jumps a spark down the wire?
There are 3 wires coming off a coil. A +12v, a ground wire that goes to the points and the actual spark plug wire.
Check for 12v on one wire, check for continuity between the other wire and the points plate.
Have you messed w the timing at all?
Fouling plugs isn’t only an ignition issue. Over-fueling could cause it as well.
Thanks Newman, I will check. With the stock jetting and only +1 main it seems to point to the spark not being strong enough, so i’m hoping to rule that out soon.
I have not messed with timing.
since you have not messed with the pilot jet (which is what provides fuel from 0-1/4 throttle and at idle) overfueling would likely be due to the float heights being too high. do a search on CB450-specific forums for where people generally set the heights for pods and exhaust. CB550’s would be something like 18mm if I remember correctly
It’s 20mm and I got some insight from DTT as far as how to measure it.
did they have anything to say about pilot jets for you?
I also found a thread on the “charging system mod” which allows for full voltage on the harness even when the high beam is not on. It’s as simple as connecting 2 wires in the headlight bucket. This was a fairly common issue on the 69-74 cb/cl450’s as the system wouldn’t pull full voltage until the headlight was set to high beam.
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Yes, I figured it out. So the “2 fucking piece” pilot isn’t really. The ‘plug’ which has the imprint of the pilot size, is just that, a plug. The inner piece is the actual pilot jet itself. I feel better now, lol.
I honestly assumed by your description that one part was either a cap or plug and one piece was the actual jet, just needed to see it in person to verify lol.
Well, you did… but it was last fall. The ‘plug’ has the 38 imprint on it and actually had holes in it on the threaded side. That’s why I thought it was more than just a cap. I thought the pilot itself was some sort of emulsion tube. DURP.
You can just disconnect the black coil wire and hook it to a battery charger at like 12 V 10 amp to rule out any wiring issues.
Not to sound too foolish, but could you elaborate slightly?
Disconnect the power wire from your coil. It’s the one that doesn’t go to the points.
Connect the coil wire to a battery charger positive cable at 12v and 10 amp.
Connect the negative battery charger cable to the frame.
Try and start the motorcycle. Still have the problem? Not the harness. Could be a coil. I have a spare if you want to try it.