Merry Christmas Me v.Subaru Built Motors

NYSpeed Automotive
81

[quote=“jrod0187,post:57,topic:40149"”]

Josh listen to Mike. Also start small and work your way up if you’re short on cash. I would always give Mike a couple hundred $ for credit in case I needed something. I learned that a few mods on the car sometimes caused something else to be upgraded. I had the back-up credit to do it. And Mike will always warranty his work. You cant lose man, besides after I threw all that work into my WRX and then it got totaled; i was done fucking around with installs.

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:word: mike is an amazing guy. he has re-tuned my car multiple times for FREE because he wasnt happy the way the tuned worked out and needed to retweak a few things.

82

[quote=“MaximaSE98,post:63,topic:40149"”]

Josh- I know u said this would be a future build and what not…but seriously get a replacement stock motor…dont go crazy on boost have a lil fun…slowly build the motor yourself with the help of people here and knowledge from mike and the others…then say in two years ur motor will be complete without totally killing ur funds…also u may want to get out of the STi in a year or so…again I know u said future build do it slow and steady that way u can learn how to do it as you go and have others show u things…

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If I do that and it blows again then what? I took everyones advice, have 2 broken motors and according to everyone else (saying I should do it the right way) and will have to shell out assloads of labor to have one motor now rebuilt (still have this other worthless motor) And have one more year down the drain with a car that I already have assloads of money invested in, that does not run. BELIEVE ME GUYS, I HAVE EVALUATED MY OPTIONS AND THIS IS THE BEST ONE FOR ME. The only argument I will accept is that im not capible of doing the swap myself (due to my track record) and I have explained several times that I dont want to, but I may have to and If I do have to, I feel that can get done right this time.

What you have to understand is that I dont want this car torn down because of an insufficient build (build meaning too weak of a motor) I rather take the risk of buying a good motor that meets my current needs (just 26lbs on 93, which this motor can more than handle) And having myself put it in. But the thing is, I dont feel it is a risk.

[quote=“boardjnky4,post:70,topic:40149"”]

nope i don’t, but he is really making himself sound like he has no clue

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I have opened myself to say that I am far from an automototive prodigy, but I have done a lot of research and talked to many people from all aspects from the builder of the motor to the guy who will be tuning it, to other owners of similar setups. I think you have misinterpreted or completely ignored every point I have made and are making pretty much all you judgements based on what you are reading about me in this thread.

[quote=“articzap,post:76,topic:40149"”]

Whats the point in spending the money on a factory rebuild it may just blow up again? At least with this motor and some different fuel maps he’ll be alright to actually push the turbo he has to the limits if he wants. Whats the point in having a car you can’t drive? Whats the point of buying the motor for the future plans if he won’t be able to get the car done because of money. For his situation and money, there really isn’t a better option out there at this point. Considering he only drove the car for 4 weeks last year, I think he’d like to be able to enjoy it this year.

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Thank you, sums it all up.

[quote=“psphinx81,post:81,topic:40149"”]

:word: mike is an amazing guy. he has re-tuned my car multiple times for FREE because he wasnt happy the way the tuned worked out and needed to retweak a few things.

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I know this, I dont want to even get into the countless “meracles” he has pulled off for me. I know what Mike has done for the subaru community all over the northeast (and world I guess) I know he is my best option for all aspects of this build, I know I would trust almost any advice he will throw at me and I know that he should be the first and only guy to go to within my reach to have this car done the right way.

83

Thanks for all the kind words everyone. It really means a lot to us and it’s nice to know that going the extra mile meant something to you guys as well. :slight_smile:

I talked to Ron at Axis today about another customer that we’re either building an engine for here or buying one from Ron. He said that anyone pushing stock sleeves over 27 psi consistantly (and the was the operative word) will have a sleeve related failure. That means either the sleeve will crack, or a ringlanad will crack because the sleeve is deformed (generally ovalized). Those running over that once in a while, according to him, will not.

My experience with our customers has mostly been with people that run either low 20’s on pump and 30 on race (occasionally), and those that run 25-27 on pump with water/meth. There are plenty that never get this far of course. None of them have had a sleeve issue but it seems they’re riding this line Ron mentioned.

My car ran about 29 psi on the street and 30-31 psi at the strip a few times, but it looks like I will be toning down the street boost before I run into problems. Basically, don’t plan on running high boost on race gas all the time. Maybe you can buy my engine and I’ll get a sleeved one LOL.

84

Well for now, 26psi seems just what I want. You say thats riding the line but I know of (all from forums yes) lots of people who have been running 25 psi for over 10000 miles on pump gas and meth, all from tuners that seem to have a lot less of credentials and experience than you.

I too talked to Ron a while back and he said mostly what you said here but did insist his product could take a consistan 27lbs for a long time: (I hope when he said his product he meant the whole block lol) So do you feel these are realistic nubers to shoot for on your tune? I know there are many variables to account for but you have told me of costomers of yours who have gotten oodles of miles out of thier stock blocks at 26psi

85

Yea like I said he told me that OVER 27 psi consistant you will eventually have a problem. None of my customers have had an issue with this yet. 26 psi on stock or that stage 3 should be fine for the sleeves.

I’m almost thinking I should sell my shortblock to someone in your shoes and get a sleeved one now. Or maybe I’ll just keep the boost down a little and enjoy the car this year without blowing a lot more money.

86

meh - wouldn’t have posted it if he didn’t want input.

I highly doubt it was posted that that everyone would know what was under his hood as the only thing that attracts is thieves and/or people knowing what you have so they know if they can beat you or not…

87

I think someone insulted articzap’s life partner, and now he is mad. :shrug:

People are encouraged to do their own builds when they:

a. have a cheap block to learn on
b. have enough money to buy a new one when they fuck up their old, expensive block.

88

another notable thing to point out is this is not an old car, nor a very cheap one for that matter.

the amount of value you are losing on the car sitting around for long periods of time this early in its life is pretty measurable fwiw.

dunno, i don’t think any of the things stated are going to change your mind, and congrats on being that sure of yourself, just think you’re going to be unhappy later on. maybe not, i’ve been wrong once before (like 10 years ago) :wink:

89

not to jump on the negative bandwagon…but dont you think you should do the suspension and brakes before you try to run low 11’s?

90

When a baby cries DO NOT SHAKE IT! Oh and dude bra build that ish yourself so you can lernz that ish mang. H8ers up in da hizzle for rizzle. But be ready to blowz her up again if you are da suck at lyfe. WORD

91

Its a STi the brakes are adequate enough to stop the car while it runs 11s…

What suspension does he really need for drag racing?

92

andrew, you suck at life

93

HAHAHAHAH WAT?

94

pretty sure the stock suspension and brakes on an sti are fine for running 11’s lol

95

you heard me

96

This just proves my point… If I cant do it the way I am saying here then It wont be done at all, the car will sit all summer and maybe break out early fall. Labor is expensive no matter how you cut it. I can let the car rot away another year if you feel thats a better option. Its like in the movies when the heros gilr says “but thats insane” and the hero replies “I have to try it at least, otherwise were all dead,” then dives off of a building. Only difference is I dont feel that this is a risk.

Another thing is some of you seem to be saing do the block right and all of you are saying to the labor right. The block is not in question here. It seems to be clear that it can handle my pwer goals.

You and sureshot really hit all time low here.

97

Suspension? Who cares, AWD for the win. Brakes…they’re plenty fine for an 11 second stop.

As for a 25 psi goal, you might as well bolt a 30R to a stock block and drive it for a couple years.

98

I was supporting your cause. :mad:

99

Want to fight? BJJ perhaps(no homo)

100

am i getting this right? a drag racer questioning a road racer why suspension is important for drag racing? :stuck_out_tongue:

all im saying is…if your gunna mod the car for any kind of racing…building up the motor should be the last thing you do. too many people are so concerned about proving who has the bigger cock they ignore the fact that all the other mechanics in making a vehicle work are more important than building the motor. it would really suck if he went out for a hard pull on his brand new setup and didnt even make it 60 feet before drivetrain parts started littering the track because he spent all his money on the motor and nothing else.