My Build Thread LS1/FD Its Fast!

Dear Drew,

More pics please. :slight_smile:

Yours Truly,
Geoff

LOL n o time for pics…Too busy getting it ready to pwn everyone on the planet.

Okay so we have: a new door handle, working radiator fans, hood release mounted, cluster reinstalled, shift light installed and working, MSD 2-step installed and working. Only problem is the actual tach reads proper at idle but gets increasingly lame as you rev the motor. AKA 2-step set to 2500rpm and the tach reads 4k. Other than this it is ready to go back to Drew. I took some phone pics but they suck major wang. So camera will be brought tomorrow.

dose that MSD unit have setup mode, like cly # , or spark/inj. signal? Is it on the PCM wire I told drew last week?

MSD unit simply plugs into the coils and then you put 1 of the 2 wires on the box to a switched ground or a switched 12 volt. I have his on a switched ground using the factory fog light switch in the console. Once activated the 2-step will work once and then not again until it sees the rpms drop below 1/3rd of the set rpm limit.

Pat is the man! That fucking tach is KILLING me.

So I ordered slicks and skinnys today. :slight_smile: I have a bullet muffler that came in today I am going to try to install soon. Waiting on a 14lbs battery. I am going to run the car Friday but do not expect anything great untuned on 18" tires. Not too concerned about the nitrous for now.

The internals of the Tach looked fine. Can you hookup an aftermarket to verify the signal from the ECM?

I am almost thinking we should run wires directly from the Tach to the ECM. Unscrew the 3 screws from the back of the Tach so that they don’t touch the flex circuit, then wire wrap the signal wires on the screws and go directly to the ECM. If that works we can pull the screws out, put nylon washers on the screw to the cluster and put ring terminals on the wires. That way you still leave everything OEM accept the signal wires to the Tach.

Let me know if you want a hand with this. I have tomorrow off all day.

There is absolutely nothing to this damn thing. I can’t imagine the Tach itself it bad. I am thinking the way the ECM communicates to the Tach…? The only thing I can think of is get an LSI Tach and attach it to the RX7 cluster. If the actual PCB form the LSI tach is abel to fit inthe cluster I can re-use the OEM Guage Face and Needles. But I would only do this if the above doesn’t work. Don’t worry, we’ll get it.

I verified actual rpms using the Genisys. On the 2-step the Genisys showed 2562 rpms when i have the 2step set to 2500rpm. Tach was reading 4kish. The RX7 and the LS1 both read tach input the same way, as a 4cylinder engine so it’s simply take pin 10 from the LS1 PCM and attach it to the Yellow/Blue wire from the B1-01 connector that used to go to the RX7 ECU. I would think an issue with the output signal of the pcm but the shift light works properly and that is tapped into the PCM also. Like I said I have continuity between the pcm wire and the tach with nothing reading out of the ordinary.

The only thing we could do is adjust the potentiometer itself (VR1) on the Tach and see if that dials it in.

If that doesn’t work then the Tach is fucked.

is it possible that since it’s off at idle by about 100 rpm as it increases that gap gets even larger? i mean 6,000 on the tach is 3500 to the pcm.

No, it would read 3600 on the Tach instead of 3500. It should be a linear relationship.

FMLLLLLLLLLLLL

Fuck that looks great.

Did about hmmmmmmm 20 heaters today.

Heater/Donuts Compilation

Blew the diff. Well that didnt take long.

lol

You didn’t bring a spare?

Time for a ford 9inch :slight_smile:

yeah, lol were sitting in line waiting to go, and he’s talking about how happy he is with the car and his times… then we line up, the light turns green and i notice he isn’t in front of me? lol

Jesus, that blows…

^quite literally… :rimshot:

:frowning: