my post count>yours so STFU n00b
not callin u a noob…but u need to stfu sometimes…and not be a dick to all of the noobs…we want the site to grow and get bigger
lighten up
if someone can’t take a joke, fuck em
90% of us got flamed and hated on when we started here…and you know what we’re still here and the site is still growing… lighten up
ur right…but id like to see the site get bigger…and i dont want ppl leaving the site b/c they say all the older ppl are gay and shit…i know its all a joke…i joke around a lot on this board…but some ppl might not realize that
no but they learn… its a way of keeping tempermental people away… the board has always been weeded one way or another
ya i knw what ur sayin…ur def. right…one day i will be smart like you O’ Wise One!!!
/it girls
keep the thread on the topic.
Ok, Custom, who has had your particular ceramic treatment done to their headers over a year ago. Something that was daily driven as well. I got Hedmen Elite headers on my truck. Extra thick flanges, ceramic coated, nice and pricey. Probably not even a year on them and the tubes look like dyno max headers already. I have a warrenty on them, but you think I’m going to put manifolds and stock y pipe back on for just a week or two. Even if I didn’t just throw em out. mf ing headers piss me off!
Shaggy i am about to school this one alittle…
Well let’s see…
jet hot: metallic ceramic coating that protect your motor to 1500f?
intake :
Well here we go… I will tell you the the stuff jet hot don’t want to to know…
AND FROM WHAT I AM GOING TO TYPE DON"T THINK THE PRICES IS GOING TO BE SO CHEAP!!!Yens all are going to find out about jet hot tonite and this is some thing yens all need to know …
When you thing of jet hot wow it was used with nasa on the space shuttle and it worked perfect… with any type of chrome ceramic there are defect’s you get blueing ,cracking flaking… not the sterling is just a fancy name for it … i have seen valve covers intakes oil pan’s and blocks coating in this stuff that is the worst thing for any thing other than exhaust…
- The oil bakes on to the under belly of the part and right there you have a greater chance of mech. failure.
- Over heating cause it hold’s the heat in.
- warpping …
- Cracking and fracture of the part due to over heating…
first off here is the place jet hot coating Comes from :
Sartor Bros Engineering
Selby, Johannesburg
South Africa
(27) 011 493 1682
fax (27) 011 493 0696
Exhaust system coatings are designed to maintain adhesion at temperatures above the normal operating range of an exhaust system. Unless otherwise indicated temperatures given refer to the base metal temperature that a coating can normally be expected to handle. Depending on the resin system, coatings designed for exhaust systems, can handle base metal temperatures in excess of 2000f. Color change can be expected at lower temperatures with many of the coatings. A color change does not necessarily reflect a failure of the coating, as color stability is secondary to the protective function. Several colors have maintained color stability, to base metal temperatures in excess of 1600f. The use of multiple coats including MCS™ can raise the color stability of all exhaust system coatings.
APPROXIMATE) ALL EXHAUST SYSTEM COATINGS
SMALL V8 HEADERS AND CAST IRON MANIFOLDS 4 OZ. PER PAIR
MEDIUM V8 HEADERS 6 TO 8 OZ. PER PAIR
LARGE V8 HEADERS 10 TO 12 OZ. PER PAIR
Ceramic Chrome-Like Coating. (Once Polished)
6 OZ.
Quarts
Gallons
Available in a special formulation for low humidity environments (MCXLH)
Exhaust manifolds can either be a cast iron, factory-type manifold or a tube steel header typically used in performance applications, though they are becoming very common in OEM applications. There are a variety of reasons for coating an exhaust manifold header. #1 Corrosion protection. The manifold will live longer as well as look nicer. Whether it is for performance or show, coating an exhaust manifold is valuable to you. #2 The coating is a thermal barrier, thus keeping heat within the manifold or header. There are a number of benefits for this. First, by keeping heat within the manifold, you’re going to acc elerate the exhaust gas velocity which reduces back pressure and reduces fuel contamination due to reversion. This is a performance benefit. Second, you’ll reduce the surface temperature of the manifold. This means if a person comes in contact with it, they are less likely to be burned and leave skin behind. If there is a component close to it, it will not see as much heat as it would with an uncoated manifold. In addition, not as much heat will be radiated under the hood or into the engine compartment. This reduces the underhood temperature which, again, reduces the temperature of surrounding parts, such as, alternators and starters. It also reduces the amount of heat that can be drawn in through the carburator, which is a secondary performance benefit. There are a variety of coatings that can be used on exhaust manifolds or headers.
The most popular is our Cermakrome. This gives a near-chrome finish, tremendous corrosion protection and is an excellent thermal barrier. On the stock side, our Color-guard Cast Iron is extremely popular, especially with restorers, since it imparts an original, dark cast iron appearance rather than the lighter appearance that is more typical of a bead-blasted finish, which is not truly stock. If someone prefers a lighter appearance, they can mix our Colorguard Cast Iron with our Colorguard Aluminum to arrive at a shade they prefer. Both of these coatings have good thermal stability and are good thermal barriers. We recommend on cast iron, due to it’s porosity, that a base coat of Cermakrome be put down first, then bake, then lightly sand blast, then put the color you wish on top. For tube steel headers, you can use our Cermakrome, Colorguard over a base coat, Black Satin, WBX, or WBLX. In most cases a single coating is acceptable. In extreme cases it might be advisable to use a base coat, such as our HHBK with a top coat such as Black Satin or WBX. In addition, you can put down a base coat of the HHBK, top coat it with WBX, and top coat that with our Cerma Clear, creating a glossy black finish that has very good high temperature stability.
We also manufacture an insulating base coat for performance applications where Cermakrome is desired. This is our MCS coating. This can be applied to the outside of the exhaust manifold or header, cured, lightly sand blasted, then a layer of Cermakrome applied over it, cured and polished. This will impart higher temperature capability allowing Cermakrome to be run on 9 to 1 motors, which typically have an extremely hot exhaust gas. MCS can also be used inside of a header to reduce the amount of heat that is transfered into the metal of the header itself. MCS is an extremely effective thermal barrier. Use TLHB on chrome headers to reduce blueing. The end result of a coated manifold or header will be better performance, better appearance, reduced corrosion which means long-term improvement in appearance and will reduce component and underhood temperatures.
My prices for the stuff are as followed:
4 oz - $19.95
8 oz - $35.95
12 oz - $49.95
Quart - $125.00
Gallon -$475.00
to get your high luster chrome look:
Chrome Ceramic may be polished by hand using extra fine steel wool (0000) followed by a polishing compound. You can also use glass bead at 25 psi to achieve a shinny (Chrome) finish. For hands free polishing a vibratory polisher is best, see information on these machines below.
This Product requires curing part(s) at 500 degrees for 1 hour.
Well now yen’s know all this …
And for the loud mouth that just know’s every thing TAKE YOU PART AND PAY A TON OF CASH AND GET THE SAME STUFF THAT YOU CAN HAVE DONE AT A REASONABLE PRICE… Shit if i charged them prices i would have peons working for me. i have no over head.
Shit better yet … Shaggy,Pewterss,Sight N Sound,The1SloShelby,red04cavy
Seen where i do my work and ask Sight N Sound,The1SloShelby,red04cavy about the work i do… The1SloShelby is my saleperson!!!
my uncle got it done on his sand truck in rockingham nc. even with the sand beatting the hell out of it it is still looking good… All my coat’s are rock hard… if they flake chip or start to rust i will re do them free of charge i don’t care if you had them on a month or 6 year’s i coat the inside and out… to give you the total covage and best protection again rust and rot…
when i come down to talk to you about them bumpers and drop you the plan off i will tell you more