Eww, what resin are you using? You’re going to need to drill that out and helicoil that bitch. Trust me.
-edit-
lol, should have read further.
They definitely make helicoils in sizes way larger than M10, so that isn’t an issue. I’ve made plenty of fixtures on SLAs before and unles they are very low load, even in some very tough resins I generally helicoil them. I never form the threads when I don’t though, I typically tap them. Although I suppose M10 is starting to get a bit bigger, could work. I guess you’re right though, if it doesn’t work, just make another.
Is there a clear coat that I can really build up thick? Or should I just get it from a can and put on a ton of coats? Do I have to let it fully dry between coats, or just after it tacks up?
I’d stay away from spray can. We have some really thick PPG clearcoat here at work that gets solid as shit…spray, let it tack up, spray again, tck up, etc. Then throw it in the oven at 140 degrees for an hour and you’re good to go!
BTW…love this little guy, the icing on the cake when it comes to giving your car a personality:tup:
Ha! Not so much my idea…more of a general rule to follow when it comes to design, it’s all about the whole package and tying it all together. Guess my college education is paying off:eekdance:
I have a nismo shift knob that doesnt have a nutsert or anything, just the resin. its held up for 5+ years…
as for the clear; definitely use an automotive, catalyst activated clear. put it on a wooden dowel, bring it to someone who paints cars on a daily basis and have them put a coat on every time they clear something. come back in a few days and you are good to go.