NA KA24E SETUP

Ahmed, you’ve got the gift for gab… I’ve never liked what you have to say, most of it rubs me the wrong way.

Also, I don’t care if what you type has some truth in it, let me emphasize “some”. I’m no genius or super mechanic, but I can smell bullshit a mile away and Ahmed, that’s what you’re full of.

Here’s my congratulations for going to the track:
http://gonrad.com/200907/clap.gif
Also, for not editing your posts 10x over…

That’s great, I’ll keep believing my bullshit.

This is for the people saying sr have horrible torque…good enough for me

Stock bottom end
JWT ECU
JWT S3 Cams
JWT Clutch+Flyhweel (Z33)
Mototron 60lb injectors
Cobra MAF
Stock Ex. Manifold (Extrude honed/Swained)
GT2871r .64 turbo (Extrude honed)
Greddy IM
Greddy o2 housing to a RSR ExMag Full 3" turbo back…

Who cares if the KA makes 1000whp @ 200rpm, when you’re on the track, you’re usually at high RPMS the whole time anyways.

Having a lot of torque down low is mainly good for towing purposes.

All purpose made race cars are usually made to rev high anyways. Look at F1 cars for example.

All I’m saying is that torque at low rpm does not equal God. KA-T is great for street, but very unreliable at track if not done right.

U2NDyno.com’s current Low $$$ SR20DET.

Uncracked engine, stock manifolds. ONLY motor upgrades are GT2871R .64, 740cc Injectors and ViPEC V44. (I also have Splitfire Coilpacks but that’s only because the stock ones were weak)

http://www.u2ndyno.com/gallery/Project%20S14%202009/o_U2NDynoVipec16psi.JPG

Dan, do you have the nerve to imply that owning your own tuning company and tuning hundreds of cars somehow makes you more knowledgeable or qualified than Ahmed? Cause that’s just fucking ridiculous, we all know that Ahmed is the ultimate authority on everything ranging from what to torque your lug nuts to, to what brand of bread to buy for best muscle gains.

having built a NA ka24e for racing…then a KAT…and now a Ls1 powered 240sx…

hands down the LS1 is the best way to go…

in its bone stock form (305hp) unless you are packing some serious supercar…you wont beat it…it can do 12’s all day long in the 1/4 mile …and you just turn the key and it runs…no issues…no fuss…no stress…no heat

if you get beat by some turbo goober with spray… buy a cam ($300) and heads ($1000 used)…and voila you are up to 450hp…just like that…and the engine is still not stressing

I would never go back to a KAT or SR based 240sx…EVER…

the ls1 is 100% the way to go…and it goes…really goes

Yeah but it’s more than all of us can afford pal. :frowning:

Save up. /the end

power to price ratio is around the same as an sr making 305 horse, but you get the power all the time with the lsx motors, not just once the turbo spools up. There are lots of ways to make this build cheaper aswell, ie buying and iron block and boring it out and putting ls1 heads on it, little heavier but you will never have to worry about your block :slight_smile:

I was planning on doing an lsx swap and it would cost around the 6k mark to do it myself

It’s a lot easier to get an SR to make 300whp and cheaper.

Trust me, if the price ratio for an SR making 300whp was the same as going LS1…at least 30 people here would already have LS swapped S13s.

The work invovled is a lot…and unless you have all the tools and can do the labour yourself, it will cost you at LEAST $8000 to have that thing running in your car.

SR swap is $3000…add a T28, 550cc, and ems and you’ll be 300whp but obviously it is not as awesome as an LS swap.

It’s not that making an SR make 300whp is easier and cheaper, it’s that the swap is so much cheaper that you can afford to make the SR make 300whp.

You cant get an SR installed for 3g’s so your comparing off numbers, if your comparing the v8 running in car price keep in mind thats the total cost for making 305hp, spending very little to make WAY more in the end will be cheaper.
How much are a set of injectors and a good ems and a tune going to run though? 3000 for the engine (providing you install it your self) plus what? I see it being cheaper long run to start with the most stock horse as you can, plus with the v8 theres power all the time not just when you go into boost.

*sighs…

If only you knew how much I haven’t spent on my LS build so far… When all is said and done I will have paid less for this swap than I stock SR swap at a shop.

You just gotta know where to look and obviously having the required skills and tools to DIY help…
And no I’m not divulging paying how much I’ve spent or what it’s been spent on. If I did everyone would have an LS in their S-chassis…

You know exactly what im talking about, because you have teached me hah. I should still be doing mine but not until after next season. Gotta finish the vette first.

I can’t wait to do my LS swap :slight_smile: Btw, sikky came up with their front swaybars for clearance issues fyi as opposed to the silly swaybar spacer that daft came up with.

Fuck LS man…

I’m staying with my Ford stuff…

:blah: Irrelevant, Point is displacement = WIN :smiley:

Yeah, I’ve decided that once I sell my bike, I’m going all out on the V8 FC. It’s gonna be good effin times.

Blasphemy! Why?