pretty much (oil) fouls two plugs and the other one is running super lean, thats kind of what im worried the problem is.
and the carb boots are in good shape. no cracks/tears and the carbs fit in tight.
i had another friend reccommend reeds too, i looked at a set of v-forces and they were just over 300 bucks…anyone know if they’re worth it? Because the basic Boyesen reeds are only like $125.
again with your sled and what you want to do with it, standard type reeds will be more than plenty.
i would recommend then on a sled like mine(twin) if your looking for more, but the usable gains on a trail triple are not really worth 3x the price
if it was me id get the cheapies. thats def ur issue though. 
if the sled runs that bad the reeds will have very noticeable issues. Pull them out and take a look before you buy new ones.
yeah they might be chipped, or split or who knows what. check them befor you dump money in to reeds.
So wait, one cyclinder is lean and the others are rich as hell?
reeds are the most overspeckulated parts ,i doubt its them it could be leekin intake boots hung floats bad seals so many things could be wrong paulie if i had more time id look at it for ya unf i dont right now instead of huckin money into it and gettin nowhere think about takin somewhere and have it diagnosed then fix it after
Trade it on a 4-stroke machine and ride like a mofo! :lmao
that to
thanks john, i hear ya on no time, i brought it over to my friends dad and hes looking at it for me. hes real good. and on that garage did you get it? In april id be down to join in with you guys, i cant do anything until then though…
and as far as four stroke goes, i hear ya!!! i miss that quad i had.
I bought EFI only because I didn’t want to get into this type of problem. That and everybody that “rides” a lot told me to stay away from triples, they are a nightmare to keep tuned perfectly. But I guess they make good power. So, I went and got the bigest EFI twin I could find with decent suspension. Keep it stock and reliable.
Anyways, I went and looked at a sled in the fall. It was a 98’ Mach 1 700 Triple. I ended up having to toy with it in the guys driveway for an hour and a half to get it running right. I don’t really know much about sleds. But the same rule applies for all these toys, mix gas with air and some spark, and it’ll run. So, you have it idling. You’re almost there. I had a problem where I was missing a cylinder. Then it was jumping to another one and missing. Pull the plugs, see what they look like. They looked fine. Throw new in if you need to, only 4 bucks a pop. If it idles but some cylinders don’t rev. It sounds like the throttle cables aren’t sync’ed right. The other easy check is for gas. Get it running and idling. Start pulling off fuel lines from the carbs and see if they piss gas all over. It makes a bit of a mess but that is what was wrong on the one I looked at. 2 of the 3 cylinders weren’t getting gas well. At that point, it started running right. But he wasn’t going to budge on the price after I dicked with it. I think it was just crap/air in the line restricting the amount of fuel the pump could deliver. It was pushing enough gas to the one cylinder and the others were just getting a little. Clear hoses, you can watch for the gas moving in the line. At least on the that Mach I looked at. Like the others said though. It can be a crank case leak, intake boots, reeds and stuff. Also, I hear reeds can get gumed up and stick, sometimes need to be cleaned. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Did you try to start it up and idle it, and spray starter fluid at the boots, and the seal on the clutch side? or anywhere else air could leak/get in? If it revs up you have a leak. 2Stoke anything will blow dick with the tinyest of leaks and your chase a tune till the cows come home.
Just a dumb idea, but when it idles, try to pull a spark plug boot off quickly so you dont get zapped, see if the motor cuts out. If it doesnt maybe it isnt getting spark on a cyclinder.
Did you take the air box off and look at the slides to see if they are syncd yet? at idle they should have about 1/16" open at the bottom and at WOT make sure they all are lifted all the way up. if not adjust the cable sleeve and fix them. also take all the jets out and the needle and make sure they are all the same and the needle clips are on the same positionn.
i was there when trying to get it running so ill answer your questions with what i know, i was only there one night so i did what the time allowed.
- did not spray anything to check crank seals.
2.carbs were removed and carb boots were in great shape.
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all cylinders are getting good spark.
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all slides are in sync, i do know how to check.
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all jets were cleaned and are the same size.
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all needles are on the same clips.
all fuel lines are new and fuel pump was cleaned and pushes good fuel to each carb. and compression was tested an all cylinder and all read at 130psi
with what i found i would be leaning towards reeds, the sled has very little for miles, but was stored for a while before we tried to get it running, problematic reed dosnt sound too far out there
just cause ya got good spark whilke pullin the motor over ,dont meen its god it at all times . there is a thing called gaskets that leek in between the boots that can leek , carb sync cant be seen by visual , a stator could be goin and droppin spark a big air leek , there is a lot that can cause it ,in my yrs of workin on 2 strokes i have seen reeds be a problem once and that was do to shit gettin sucked in the carb
Thats good sofar, that weeds out some things. I would still spray some shit around the cyclinders that are not firing correctly and see if it revs up and points out a leak.
If some cyclinders run fine, I would tend to think it isnt a crank seal leaking air into the case, becasue all the cyclinders would run like crud.
If the reeds were jacked up, and the carb is still sending the right air and fuel, wouldnt the fuel puddle up in the reed boot/case? Not sure now that I think of it. I am saying if it was stuck closed or partly closed the fuel would have to go somewhere when it was being slamed into the face of the reed.
if the reeds are hanging open then it wont make good vacuum in the crank cased, which will keep it from effectively pulling the air/fuel mix in properly. Ive never seen any that are stuck closed, just ones with broken petals or weak petals that don’t close all the way.
how else do you get the slides close before you start it and do an actual sync? i would really like to know.
Did you get this fixed yet man? What was it?
i couldnt get it completely worked out on my own, i gave it to a buddies dad, spoke with him last night and he beleives it was mag side crank seal, waiting on parts…ill let ya know.
but the reeds are bad lololol