Okay. I’ll print this out and take it to pops (he’s doing the majority of the work). Thanks.
Wayne IIRC from what quite a few people have told me and in my own experiance timing a vehicle… It could take a lot of spins to just check to see if the timing marks line up…
IMO it owuld be faster to time the car from scatch in the first place
Idk how subarus are to time but id rather put it to TDC and retime it then dick with all that
Obviously id say retime it… turn it slowly by hand it see if you can feel anything binding up like it wont turn and it pushing up against a valve… you just gotta be easy as when you go on the compression stroke its not as easy to turn and you wanna be sure your not forceing it up against a valve
but as wayne said see if you can hear tapping etc…
If he doesn’t check to make sure the marks line up first, he’ll never KNOW if it actually jumped (assuming no engine damage). Not only that but lets say it only jumped on one side, how is he going to know which side of the engine could potentially be damaged without knowing where the marks are before he takes it apart? It’s worth the time to get all facts to me. Besides, it’s only going to take a maximum of 4 engine rotations. Usually just 2. We’re not talking hours here.
The camshaft(s) spins at HALF the speed of the crank, so for every full cam rotation you will have turned the engine over twice. :thumbup
ILYA if you need anything holler.
Will do. I’ll see what my dad did last night (I was only there briefly). Hopefully he didn’t already take too much stuff off not allowing him do what you are saying.
I agree 100%…
but I would think it would still take more than 4 rotations to get the belt marks to lineup on all timing marks from the cam pulleys/crank pulley… While I know that for every 1 turn of the motor the cams pulley rotate twice… but the t-belt has a longer distance to travel… IDK im sick and fucked up on sudifed, I swear this makes sense… but it probably doesnt
With the tensioner that loose thou and how he was descibing it cranking… it sounds like the cams/crank were just spinning inside the belt
meh, no biggie if he did. if you get home and he’s already got it all apart, just re-time it and put it back together. You’ll know for sure how bad it is / was when you go to start it. If it fires and runs ok, warm it up and then do a compression test & a leak-down test.
I assume that since you are in there you WILL be replacing the water pump as well? No sense in having to pull that back apart in another 10k. Again, OEM components are worth their added cost if you value easy install & want to keep the car for any length of time.
The cams rotate 1/2 for every crank turn, not the other way. It does not take long to get timing marks lined up.
shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh :thumbup
JESUS CHRIST DOES THIS FORUM USE ANY FUCKING LEGIT HTML!?!?!?!?!?!?!
I’m hoping that’s what happened…that would basically eliminate any chance for any internal damage right?
Noted.
no, there is still chance for internal damage… i never asked… is this a stick car? the potential for damage is less with an auto. FYI.
It’s an auto. It’s my mothers car lol.
:thumbup:thumbup
Why is it easier for a manual to get f’ed up from something like this than an auto.
because on a stick car, when the engine stalls from the belt breaking, the crank continues to turn until the driver pulls it out of gear or pushes in the clutch. An auto car can just stall and the torque converter will slip and not spin the engine.
Gotcha. So how likely is it that the internals still have a chance of being damaged? Much lower now?
meh, if i could predict that kinda shit from over the internet without pics / vids or seeing the car, I sure as shit wouldn’t be working for the state and living in Duanesburg.
Yes, but it all depends on if the valves are open or not too…
If any valves were open when you tried to crank it with just the crank movings its possible you bent a couple valves…
Hopefully you got lucky !
Well we definitely tried cranking it.
Crap.
doesn’t mean they bent. relax. get it together and see how it sounds. if it sounds fine, compression test it. i bet its ok.
So here is the current dilemma:
We can’t get the nut for the main pulley (forget the name) to break. No matter what we do, the pulley spins too. It makes a sort of popping sound every couple of cm or whatever. That’s probably the loose tensioner.
We have tried everything. The biggest chain wrench we have is 15in.
Any ideas?