julie not everyone is into that. Get off your soapbox and realize autox isnt for everyone…
- Who the fuck is talking about auto-X?
- How can you say ________ isn’t for someone if they never try it?
- It’s not a sopabox, it’s a crate of Bisquick.
- This is the forth point.
well your fourth point totally beats me, i have no response, ill cower in shame in the corner
and everytime you post you talk about autox or road racing of some kind “OMG if you dont autox ur gay OMG pancakes OMG straight line is gay OMG come here hot stuff”
in Julies defese the Orange Cobalt makes frequent stops at Auto-X events and he always says he wants to do it…i even took his car for a fun run
catbacks are over rated and cost to much for what you get. Drop pulley, injecters, afc, wideband, then watch as you dump into the 13’s. Also get a areoforce gauge to scan. That should all fit into your budget.
AFC-$179.99
Injector connectors-$29.99
42# Injectors-$159.99
Modular pulley system-$129.99 (chioce of pulley and hub)
LM1 Wideband-$349.99
Adjustable Tensioner-$99.99
Total-$949.00 +shipping
=huge smile, mid 13’s with crappy 60’ and 100+trap, 260+whp (depending on pulley size)
zzperformance.com
he explained that Cobalt SS dont react well to pullies…ECU detects boost and bleeds of excess pressure making the pulleyu virtually useless for now unless he goes stand alone
I know all about the cobalts and the bypass valve. Read up on the cobalt forums there are ways around it and people have been running 16-18psi with no problems. You dont need a stand alone for it, PCM tunning will be out soon also.
I’m assuming you mean it takes more effort to get the car moving by the driver, and not the engine. LWFWs (and other mass reductions don’t “make power” they decreases loss, which makes it easier for the car to get moving off the line, with the largest benefits in the lower gears.
I can see it being harder for the driver if you have the coordination skills of a pile of monkey crap.
I’ve had several LWFWs from 9-13lbs and it never took more than a days worth of driving to get used to.
More effort in what way? Also I have used Fidanza wheels in the past on Mustangs with no problems. Don’t let the internet propaganda cloud your judgement of a product.
He wanted to know what mods to do and driver mods > * These are the mods that interest me the most. Just like you will always get someone on here preaching terbo and OMG!!11!1! more buuoooosssstttt…
Once you have a focused goal the route to car modifications become much clearer. All I’m doing is suggesting that he try something. I sure as hell wish someone would have suggested the same shit to me 8 years ago.
well he did put an obnoxiously large brake kit on a car that probably didn’t need it, so hes into putting his money into the wrong places
Safety>* Although that amount of safety might be a little over the top, but who cares.
On Friday night, Chris will race anyone from 60-0 and will probably win.
So, place ya bets bItChEz!!
Not if he isn’t willing to stop his car as hard as I am…
Well the big brakes WOULD help if I decided to do some autocross this year, although I wouldnt be in a “stock” class anymore I would imagine. I think I’m going to stop by Hybrid and have them check out the exhaust and see what they can do with that, and then get some ideas from them as to other stuff I could possibly do.
i’d say throw on a header, get the exhaust done up, maybe throw on an underdrive crank pullie then look intot he sc pullie my friend has a redline pushin 18psi and it seems like its a whole other car
I have a 3.25/3.1/3.0/2.8non-slip DUB pulley system FS cheap:headbang:
will it work on his? i think his snout is smaller…
edit: this is what ne NEEDS
http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_ion/products1.php?id=496
just fab up some plates for where that bypass valve is and put a manual boost controller in it, then do the afc to tune for it and be done
lol I dont think people realise you cant use a boost controller.