Niiiiice! I still would like to see what the 282/282 combo would do.
I agree, but even Brian was kind of telling me not too. Everyone seems to think while still very aggressive, the 280/272 combo will work well. And… for when I step up to a better motor, I have a snky set of cams ready for me :snky:
Awesome. Glad you went for it, it was such a smokin deal.
:tup:
Dan
I love this thread! So are you going to remove the stock fuel tank? Is the pump going to be on a manual switch or run like stock?
Fuel tank is gone. And yeah, I am going to have both the electric water pump and and fuel pump come on with key-on, and then the thin fan come on when the temperature gets to a certain temp, just like factory!
Nice, so the car didn’t come with one? How much weight did you save there?
I cant decide how I want to wire my Honda. Last time I had the fan and fuel pump on a switch but it was a pita.
Not sure on the weight there, but it’s a lot nicer being able to access the ENTIRE fuel system without needing to jack the car up in the air.
I have been thinking a lot about wiring. The fan on my car is easy, since there is a relay box that is controlled from the stock pcm. The output of the box is 2 wires, which go to the fan. The PCM sends the signal to the relay box when necessary, to kick it on and off.
As for the fuel pump and electric water pump, they will both be hard-wired to the fuse block under the hood, and then run to their indidivual relays. All thick gauge wiring will be used, since they are directly connected to the positive. Then, the turn-on wire for their relays will be connected to a 12V key on signal, so that on key on, the fuel pump primes and the water pump starts up. That is the best way that I have come up with so far, and it retains most of the factory benefits of not having extra switches and complexity.
–mark
That dose sound like the simplest way to wire everything.
I bet you will get some looks when you open the trunk at the gas station!
Hah, yeah. I am going to need to keep a 2x4 in the trunk with me, so that I can hold the trunk open while I fill the cell 
I bet we can come up with a simple way to pin the trunk open for fill ups, working on things etc. Im thinking just a pin through the hinge tube into some bit of stationary metal or bracket. Then have another hole to put the pin in when you want to close the trunk so its captive. 
Dan
Not a bad thought :tup:
Haha, I made this list of things that we need to get in stock before the motor goes in last night: :lol::lol:
Today we started working on the motor some, doing the prep work before it goes in. We started by unbolting extra weight that will not be necessary, such as the power steering bracket, a lot of extra supports and bolts, the water pump pulley, the factory water pump outlet pipe (for the heater, throttle body, etc…), and so on. Here is some of what was removed:
And the motor is much more simple now, and the only belt that we will have is the alternator belt:
Once the crank pulley comes off, we can pull the factory water pump, bolt up the hollowed out water pump housing (to work with the electric water pump), do the cams and springs/retainers, followed by a new timing belt. Then, she can go in :tup:
There are a few spots that we have to plug up on the factory setup, since we are re-routing coolant through AN lines. It will be a simple pinch and weld operation, but we can’t forget or else we’ll have a mini-niagara falls on our hands
–mark
looks good! how many miles does it have on it?
This motor has 44k on it. Funny enough, the chassis has around the same miles on it, even though they are from about 1500 miles apart
Great Job!
Keep us updated… More pix we love them!
I open my hatch when fueling too, some people look some dont even notice, most see the bottle and ask me if i use NOS
lol
So, the Kelford 280/272 Mivec cams, Supertech single springs w/ titanium retainers, and my ARP head studs arrived. I just got back from the shop on my lunch break I was told that this afternoon/evening my Motor, clutch, and trans should be getting installed. Depending on how busy they are, I may get the transfercase and driveshaft installed today as well, just to start getting the parts on the car, and off of the palets spread around the shop.
The STM open house is 11 days away, so my goal is to have the car running and tuned by then. I am pretty sure the only parts left that we need to make / buy are the exhaust, and AEM. Exciting times
You need to get some one at the shop to take some pix…
Is the AEM V2 on its way?
Well, I will take the pics myself, I will be up at the shop lending a hand, we just haven’t done anything yet. We are doing it this evening to my knowledge.
I am not going to get the AEM v2. I don’t even think they have one for the Evo 9 yet, but in my mind, the AEM v1 is just fine for my needs.