New here, B5 A4

the thing about the gloss is this.

Gloss anything is the refraction of a perfectly smooth surface. Basecoat when painting a base/clear anything is a semigloss to a flat appearance when its shot, becasue its rather rough finish wise and has many highs/lows if you feel it.

The clear over that levels out over the base and adds the depth to refract the light and appear glossy.

This is where rattle can anything fails hard at being glossy. Shooting clear requires a overlap of 70% each pass to lay out evenly and allow it to self level. A spray gun lays out a 6-8" fan, where a rattle can is about 3" effectively max. so its very hard to get an even coat, and keep it wet to allow the stuff to self level properly. not to mention its much thinner in a rattle can than shot from a spray gun… 2-3 passes on a spray gun puts out the same material, thickness wise, as about 10 passes with a rattle can.

Lastly the inability to “cut and buff” that stuff, like a regular clear coat leaves you with “what you see is what you get”. As in, dry overlaps, orange peel, uneven coats, runs, sags, dust, dirt, bugs, etc can not be wet sanded and buffed out of the finish.

I could care less what you do, all I am doing is giving you hard facts, from experience too, about the process of painting a car and getting results you expect. Same as your buddy should be saying, if he understands autobody too. That stuff is a wicked up hill battle to get anything to look worth while, applied to panels with large surface areas.

His dad’s been painting his whole life, so I’m sure if we run into issues with that kind of thing he’ll put that Big Joe touch on it and make it work. My big thing is I want to peel it off to sell the car.

To be honest, I want to try it more than anything. I like trying stuff out to see what works, even if it is the “wrong way”. Sometimes, you get a great outcome, sometimes you don’t. Since not a lot of people have done this, I want to see what happens. Know what I mean? Curiosity.

No doubt man. Like I said I really want to see it. Better yet having someone with an autobody background do it. Who knows maybe the stuff is the bees knees and my assumptions are totally wrong.

GL with it. Keep us posted.

Dipped the roof last night. Acutally dipped it twice. Once on Friday (horrible results with spray cans) and once today (AWSOME results with a gun). I’ll post pictures/videos tomorrow with a full explanation of our process.

Subscribed for pics.

when you dip i dip we dip

Here’s my kinda sorta write up. Enjoy:

What’s goin on guys. Over the weekend (1-7-11 to 1-8-11) I plasti-dipped my roof. Now my initial though process was I wanted a gloss black roof. Once I read about plasti dip I was hooked. A great cheap way to paint your roof that literally tears right off.

I went online, bought 4 cans of clear coat right away (just because I couldn’t find it locally) for about 30$. Those came in midway through the week, so Thursday night I went out and got 5 cans of black (about 32$).

Friday night finally came. I’ve got a buddy who works at an Autobody shop, so after hours I went over there. We used some leftover plastic to bag the top half of the car, taped the edges (along the rear window molding, front window molding, and the strips that follow the roof).



We layed on each coat as evenly as possible, trying to keep it from streaking like many other videos I saw. It was impossible to do but at least the effort was there. We also blasted salamander’s to heat the garage up and help dry. All this did was kick up dust and put it all up in the paint. Since it’s plasti dip it actually didn’t look awful with all the dust specs in it, so we said screw it lets keep going. Every 2 pictures or so are different coats:




Now the clear was a huge mistake. The matte black actually evened out nicely (laid on the last coat pretty thick, let it dry for something like 3-4 hours before the clear). The clear sprited out of the can almost immediately, causing huge ugly drips all over the roof. It really sucked because we knew rite there we were going to have to redo it, but we finished anyway. Well let me just say, the clear coat is garbage. Even after finishing it, the whole roof wasn’t very glossy. That being said, we didn’t bother doing more than like 1 ½ coats because we knew we were tearing it off anyway.

Tearing off the tape was simple. Since the edges arn’t really touching, you can pull it off without really risking pulling the freshly painted paint off the roof with it. Just make sure you have a razor blade handy, because there are a few select spots it might require a light trace with the razor blade. For me, only about 1 inch in the sunroof required this sort of attention.
Finished look that night:


Finished look the morning after:

First Attempt:
32$ (5 cans of black)
30$ (4 cans of clear)
20$ (garage materials)
Total : 82$ (Pretty damn expensive considering)

The next day (Saturday) I stopped at home depot, picked up a can of actual plasti dip, and a can of VM&P Naphtha for thinner (says it right on the side of the can, and it’s the only suggestion that’s an actual ingredient). This time we headed to the garage pretty confident in our plan. Tore off Fridays mistake, which came off EASY. The tiny inner edges were hard as hell to get the dip out of, but some of it I said screw it and didn’t get to picky (you don’t see it, its deep in the edge, and I wasn’t trying to spend an hour just removing the little bits I could barely get to)

Now got to the fun part, after the car was bagged/taped again (this time we bagged the WHOLE car to avoid any overspray from the gun), we started reducing the paint. I don’t have the knowledge to do this, but my buddy who works at the shop we were at pretty much reduced it, tested how it would spray, then reduced it a little more (he said 4 to 1 with a little extra after we tested). I believe he said he used a primer gun, because it would handle the thicker paint much easier.

Now out of the gun, it layed on THICK, and very evenly. According to my buddy, out of the gun almost no pattern is required for an even coat. As long as you put it on as evenly as possible, you wont have to worry about streaking or anything. Our mistake here was not doing the edges first. When we were finishing we used the rattle can to touch up. This was an AWFUL idea and from the “final pictures” youll see where the rattle can hit, and what was completely the gun.

Just the gun sprayed coat



“touched up”



Final product (minus like 1 more touch up youll see)




That last little touch up

Final picture

“morning after picture”

My opinion on the final product is you have to see it to appreciate it. The lighting makes it look a little weird at angles (especially through a cell phone camera) but if you’re up close you can see that it’s pretty damn even overall.

Best part was we really had to put 1 coat on. We should have done 2, but I figured wed only need 1 (dumb mistake) can of dip, so we ran out of paint right at the end there.

Second Attempt:
1 can of Plasti-dip (dip) 8$ (should have bought 2)
1 can of VM&P Naphtha 9$
Materials 20$
Total : 40$ (WAY cheaper, WAY better outcome)

All in all, im satisfied with the outcome. Next time, I will buy 2 cans of dip and a can of reducer. This should be plenty and give a very even finish. I don’t want to spend another weekend on it right away, so I think I’m going to leave it and try again over summer. After all, it peels right off anyway, and beside the few inconsistencies, it looks pretty damn good in my opinion.

I’ll post videos in a minute. Takin forever to upload

If that looks better in person instead of the camera phone, then doesn’t sound like a bad experience for a few hours of work.

I however expected it to be more glossy than it seems. It will work great on accents such as grills or small body parts but I’m not sure about doing the whole car as some people have proposed.

Good to see it also peeled right off after the first butchered coat without any issues.

First off. MEGA + REP for trying it, like you said, and backing up your efforts with lots of pics and a great write up.

Now for my 2 cents i promised. :rofl

No offense to you, or your buddy helping… but you were fighting an uphill battle and you can see the result. Like I said in this and the other PlastiDip thread… there is just NO WAY to get a rattle can paint job or even a product like that shot out of a gun to lay out correctly on large panels like a roof or full car. Its not designed to do it. Picasso couldn’t lay plastidip on a car and make it look right!

I invite you to my shop so i can take a look at it for myself and give my honest opinion. If it really looks better than those pics, I will say it. Also backing my word, if you want to have me respray the roof gloss black, the right way, I will take $100 off becasue you gave it a hell of a shot and spent that money on this plastidip attempt. Thats one local car enthusiasts hand washing another.

I think it looked better the first time :lmao

Well I figured, for a total spent of around 100$, and how much fun I had doing it, surely didn’t hurt anything.

I didn’t use nearly any of the spray cans I thought I would, even the first attempt was only 2 cans. Home depot wouldnt let me return what I didnt use (even though I didnt even take the top cap off) so I might use it to dip my winter wheels, who knows, maybe even my summers so I can change colors whenever I want.

Plus it’s so fun tearing it off XD

So a few updates:

What I’ve done so far (I know I said it already, but I figured I’d run through it again in one big thread):
Neuspeed lowering springs (1.25 all around)
Forge 007 DV
AEM dry flow intake (WAY to big, had to slice up my OEM inlet pipe to get it to fit)
Alpine MP3 cd player
Alphasonik component front and rear speakers
Alphasonik PMA2100ix amp running 2 10" Sonys (they were basically free, couldnt say no)
6k HID’s for headlights and foglights
RS4 aftermarket grill (I dont like the chrome trim myself)
Eyelids (unpainted, sorta left them that way to match the grill)
17" RS4 reps for summer
15" Stocks with snows for winter
Started an S4 interior swap to black for the headliner and pillars
Put in all white SMD lighting
Ran red SMD lighting to driver/passenger feet

What I’m planning:
FMIC
Forge turbo inlet pipe w/ new (correct size) filter
Alphasonik PMZ12005 5 channel amplifier (bought, needs to be installed)
Paint the roof and rims black
Exhaust (when I can afford it)
Bilstien shocks/struts (when I can afford it)

I don’t have huge plans for the car. I want it to look relatively clean and have a few small upgrades. What’s hurtin me right now is I’m in college, so money is tight. Makes it hard to buy the more expensive components, especially when your fixing normal maintenance things.

Here’s what I’ve done so far or paid for in repairs:
Power steering rack (paid) + new outer tie rods (1 was paid, I did the other)
Rear wheel bearings (paid for 1, I did the other)
4 front upper control arms (did myself)
2 front passenger control arms (I have the driver side, but they dont NEED to be done yet, installed myself)
Almost every vaccum line replaced (had done at Langan, 650$ later I got it back)

Anyway, here’s some pictures:
When I got it-ish. It’s salvage title so this is literally the day after it got finished with a new front end and paint

Before I even paid for it me and my buddy started putting **** on it. I got it from his dad since he owns a body shop.
HID’s



The black tails were on his S4, we swapped them over so he could sell his car easier. They’re hella dark. Also installed LED lisecnse plate lights.


Threw on some rally armor mud flaps

Here’s where I mounted my rear crossovers


Rear tweets

RS4 grill


RS4 reps

Before lowered
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/eliteemerz/A4%20stuff/A4onrims.jpg
Aftaaa
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/eliteemerz/A4%20stuff/2011-09-19145750-1.jpg

Few shots at my camp in old forge:



New amp, picked it up a few days ago. Plan is to gut the driver side trunk where the OEM amplifier and disc changer go, build something to mount it to, and wire up all kinds of lights for fun.

Here’s my current lighting, didn’t want to get all ricey with it, so I stick to simple under your feet red.
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/eliteemerz/A4%20stuff/2011-11-21191954.jpg
Headliner:
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-5602-40c4.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-5619-c066.jpg
Removing the foam
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-563b-3286.jpg
All that foam. Looks like doodoo butter
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-5676-def9.jpg
Half way
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-569b-21c2.jpg
Untrimmed
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-56bb-319e.jpg
All done
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-56ce-911a.jpg
C pillars
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c048305-56df-5bea.jpg
Headliner I give myself 5 out of 10. Doenst look bad and it was my first time. Pillars were a 9 out of 10, prob bc theyv were so small it was easy as hell

Also got a new windshield (mine started coming off, shitty urothane, then broke when was being reset)
Took off the eyelids also
and went with an S4 OEM grill instead of the aftermarket RS4 grill. If I find an OEM RS4 grill for a good price I’ll probably slap that on, but the S4 grill looks way better than the one I had. It looked kinda cheap IMO. Who knows, I might put it back on in a few months or to switch stuff up
Uninstalled
http://img.tapatalk.com/483a1192-fceb-caef.jpg

Took off the eyelids!
http://img.tapatalk.com/b8991436-fd38-e7df.jpg

Installed
http://img.tapatalk.com/b8991436-fd4c-121a.jpg

Also got my forge TIP in the mail. Excuse my filter, I was way to big so I cut the inner frame up and smushed it. Still functions fine, and works fine until I aquire a new filter
http://img.tapatalk.com/b8991436-fdb3-b408.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/b8991436-fdc9-2f4c.jpg

Here’s a pic of how I mounted the amp/cap
http://img.tapatalk.com/b8991436-fdf0-dd4f.jpg

Nice car/Nice project. I see it has a Copart stock # on it. Was it wrecked or a dealer consignment?

Was hit in the front. Salvage title. I basically got a parts car free with it. Anything I need I just cop

Sent from my happy place via tapatalk

As one Audi driver to another, please don’t ever take your car to Langan. Either learn to do the work yourself or bring it to a reputable euro repair shop

Small, small world. I have a camp in Old Forge…gray place on Park Ave, second house up from the Hemmer Cottage. As of several hours ago, I also own a B5 A4.

Yeah when he handed me a bill for 650$ I was pretty mad, especially because he specifically told me he’d keep it under 600$. Local dude quoted me at 400$ after the fact, but I didn’t really know any local places that worked on Audi’s. Lesson learned.

If you stand on the boardwalk in town you can see my camp, yellow one on the right of the channel.
My favorite thing to do is chill on the corner of the channel whenever there’s fireworks and watch boats run aground.:pop Watched what looked like a small yacht run himself aground last year with like 10 people on the boat. No one ever figures out all you need people to do is get off the damn boat for a second and let it lift off the pond floor. I ejoy dumbass people:haha

Repainted part of my trunk getting color right now
http://img.tapatalk.com/ad8e6669-bf10-9082.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/ad8e6669-bf30-d38a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/ad8e6669-bf68-a200.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/ad8e6669-bf86-63ce.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/ad8e6669-bf98-3e4f.jpg
Sent from my happy place via tapatalk

Finished
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c714e5e-015b-992d.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/6c714e5e-0170-32d8.jpg

Sent from my happy place via tapatalk

Put leather seats in today to replace the ripped up pleather. Pumped about it. Pics to come later.

Sent from my Evo V 4G using Tapatalk 2