I would love to agree with you, but I don’t. There is a big difference between TWEAKING the tune on a bolt-on car with factory cams and actually TUNING a car. Once you start adding non-factory internals and FI, you change the game… It takes a lot of know-how and experience to successfully tune.
I would also like to know what waterhead dipshit is dumping fuel in a motor to suppress knock…
I agree, but then what is the difference between ‘tweaking’ and tuning? You obviously need to start off with a base tune, which needs to be tweaked after logging. So what is tuning?
There was a thread on a delta-body forum where this moron was doing back to back highway pulls in the winter and experiencing knock. His tuner added fuel up top since the car was going lean and knocking (from the cold air and the fact that the car was tuned in the summer). Dumbass proceeds to do more WOT pulls and eventually melts #4 piston. :rofl
Anyway, the tune on a car obviously is very important, but IMO what’s just as important is how the car is driven. If you’re expecting longevity out of a car, like your daily driver, then it would be wise to NOT beat the shit out of it all the time or hold it WOT down the highway in the middle of the winter. My car has had numerous tunes on it’s PCM, from GMPD to Paul on LI to myself and has had no issues aside from the GM tune being pig rich, which is understandable. However, I baby this car 90% of the time since it’s my one and only car and I plan on keeping it for a long time.
If you were to ask me, I’d say it’s the tuner’s responsibility to compose a calibration that’s both safe and offers the performance that the customer is looking for. On the flip side, it’s the owner of the vehicle’s responsibility to ensure that the car is properly driven and taken care of.
dump fuel to remove KR? are you kidding me? thats like putting a band aid over a stab wound.
If you are getting KR, you remove timing. The reason why you are getting KR in that cell (or cells) is because of timing to begin with. When you remove timing, it richens that cell. When you add timing it leans that cell. I am not sure how difficult tuning your cavalier can get, but there is ALOT more to that in the LSx world then adding fuel to take care of KR…
there are obviously many different levels of tunes as well…obviously a bolt on car is just going to have a wideband thrown on it, tweak the AFR and add a few degree’s more timing and remove torque management and what not…
but when you get into H/C/ aftermarket intake cars, you are basically re-doing every single parameter you possibly can…
were talking High/low octane spark, PE enrichment, MAF recalibration, Primary VE, Base running airflow, start up running air flow, OL and CL etc. I could go on all day.
As a matter of fact, I like to think I do. A dyno is great to have access to, but I can promise you don’t need a dyno to tune a small block Ford, because I have done (and am doing) it still.
I’m by absolutely no means an expert, but I have my summer daily driver idling and cruising like stock and getting about 20 mph but going well over 130 in the quarter (I like to keep the ET to myself :thumbup)
Now, if I had an 80k Corvette I may trust “professionals” to help, but the Ford EEC is not rocket science, you just have to be willing to learn. I’ve had so many different things hooked up to this car it isn’t even funny, but I now have software that works awesome and even lets me burn my own chips if needed. I can’t imagine the GM stuff being much more complicated but who knows., I haven’t really looked into it.
Whoa whoa whoa, so you’re saying Howard @ Redline is a scammer and an all around unpleasant fellow, and the new dude has a secret contract with Denooyer, and you’re a better tuner than all of them COMBINED?
A little too much drama for me over at McDonalds/Kohls, so I have been laying low. I will have it out soon I’m sure, going to another track rental in a couple weeks as well…