I dont think a turbo can be considered a “BOLT ON” or even a head swap, or cam swap and so on. now if you saying headers intake and things like that, yea those are bolt ons. And what about the links? The one link is for a 95 GA, and the other is to a fiero forum (hardly an nbody) Im on jbody quit offten, and ive seen some of the 2200 guys on there like event, adler, juicedz4, and alex16cav and so on.
But maybe i should clear something up, when i say the 2200 is a pile of poop im not talking about its day to day reliability, im tooking about it in terms of adding power, the LD9 and LD2, LGO, W41 all responde better to modding then the 2200, its that simple. And your saying that more and more people are modding the 2200, did you ever consider that their are more of them on the road then z24s, so its basic mathamatics, more 2200 is going to lead to (what it might seem to be) more people modding them.
example, say there were 300, 2200 power jbodies ever made and 100 ld9 powered jbodies ever made. Now lets say that 100 people mode the 2200 powered cars and the other 200 are bought up by old people and driving as a DD, and then 50 ld9 powerd cars are bought and modded and then the other 50 are used a DD. Now that means that 1/3 of 2200 cars a modded and 1/2 of ld9 cars are modded.
Well the interesting thing about that is GM cheapened out on the isuzu 76 mm tranny in the 96-99 nbodies and jbodies (manual trans) This trans is found in some lotus cars around the same time. These trannies can handle up and over 450hp (minus axles). But when GM got ahold of the tranny they changes alot of the parts out (i guess since they figured no1 was going to make 450hp in there nbody or jbody). So GM changed the metal tempering specs on both the gear clusters and the differentail planetary gears. GM reduced the steel tempering of the transmissions they contracted from Isuzu so that they only withstood the capability of the engines they were using in their vehicles. GM’s specifications were below Isuzu’s own specifications. GM also had the synchros redesigned from a single piece unit to a two piece unit, which engages more smoothly but wears out more quickly. So if your running alot of HP then your best beat is to find one of these, or even cryotreat some of the gears in the tranny.
You are still missing my point so its pointless to continue this conversation with you.
Like some one siad if you have the time, money and know how anything is possible.
If all you want to do is bolt on pre made shit then so be it. the Quad 4 (2.3) disapeard because the motor in stock form couldn’t handle the power and had too many problems. Yeah it put those numbers out but for how loing till somthing broke. Same with the 2.4 they changed some things and it still had problems.
I’m talking about actually building a 2200 not slapping shit on it and seeing how long it will run. If I wanted to do that i would throw a 100 shot wet kit on it and go to town. Then I could be a jackstand racer.
and for the most part the kits you guys are in love with turbo wise are a bunch of bolt ones. Besides taping the oil lines and getting a new manifold. its still bolted on and most of these guys don’t go in and change pistons, rods, compression and so forth so yes it is a bolt on.
anyways this isn’t what this thread is about. Its about what I bought and have on order. Not to get into a pissing battle about a hypothedical engine build off and which one is better. when mines done I’ll come and get the overall approval from you.
you guys talk about problems with the 2.4 i got 128k miles on mine and it dont miss a lick at all. no oil consumption or leakage. the car was beat on severly before i got it. it had syn oil in it from 3k miles on up.
Im not talking about slapping things on a 2.4 or 2.3 and seeing how long it will run ether, dont know where you got that idea from.
Well this might be were your getting the “2.4 has problems” idea, these kids obviously arent doing things right. Also exploited sells a kit that goes for about 4k that comes with just about everything, but these kids cheapen out and buy the basic bottom of the barrel kit. But then agian all the people i know making BIG hp are using one off custom setups, not kits from companies.
I was sitting at work talking to my buddy and thinking. My IAT sensor is right behind the filter. Then on the bend right before the throttle body the vent hose is connected. Well if I put this CryO2 intake section in the center should I flop where the IAT sensor is? Reason I’m thinking is that tells the computer the actual temperature going into the engine well if its before the cryo intake its going to be getting a much warmer reading and not dumping enough fuel.
Now IF I swap positions between the IAT and the vent hose will that hinder any normal operations of the engine or cause me to throw codes? I don;t think it will I just want to make sure due to all this crap with the new ODBII emissions BS.
here is a picture the red circle by the intake is the IAT, the other red circle is the Vent hose coming from the valve cover. The blue hose coupling id where the Cryo insert will be placed.
