I’ll make a separate thread for this because right now it’s over in the “STI vs Evo” thread and probably not getting many people looking at it. My situation is this:
Right now i’m running the direct port wet shot, my A/F ratio goes straight to 9.xx:1 on the WB when i hit spray WOT, which is horribly rich. With the dry shot(i turned off the fuel solenoid) the A/F ratio goes straight to 16.xx:1 on the WB, very very lean. I have yet to check the plugs, i have to change them anyways, to see if in fact it is running too rich because i’ve heard of people having the WB read rich but they wind up leaning out and then it’s too late. I took the car out for a quick run yesterday afternoon and the WB read 9.xx and the car was sputtering up top so it is definately getting too much fuel.
A few members on here have told me i need smaller jets on the fuel side, i just don’t know which size i should get. Right now i’m running .022 nitrous jets and .018 fuel jets. I’ve been recommended to get .015 fuel jets to be safe.
Without a professional tune, all you can do is experiment. FYI 9.xx to 1 may even be 5xx or 6xx… many widebands dont read well below 9xx to 1. Buy several jets and keep trying, but beware that testing can be costly or detrimental…so keep it at least 11.5 … for now. Can you use software to control your injector flow somewhat as well to help you tweak it?
16x to 1 will not last long at WOT as you know. But milage is good
Yeah my WB doesn’t go below 9.xx and doesn’t go above 16.xx. I have a laptop i can throw in my car that has the ECU tuning software on it and plug it into the ECU and tune it from there. That will allow me to add fuel and retard the timing, which is if i unhooked the fuel solenoid and made it a dry shot. I haven’t tried doing that yet because the laptop i have at the moment is pretty shitty.
Yeah and Jason just said testing can be costly or detrimental. I’m trying all i can to not blow my motor up before i get it running right.
At WOT N/A i am usually at 13.xx:1, normal cruising around i’m at 14.5-14.7:1
That’s what i am also wondering. Last year i threw on a wet fogger and ran a 50 shot, untuned, stock ECU, no AFR wideband and seemed to be fine. This year it’s a lot different with the 3 extra ports, a lot more nitrous and a lot more fuel.
your best bet is to talk to some one who runs a wet shot and see what the best jetting would be. I know theres a guy frank who has a wet setup on his ls1 and he would know the best jetting most likely. Or ask adam 94 gt or some thing on here about the correct jetting
11.5 is a lil fat…fat is safe,he doesnt make 75k a year…lose a few hp and run a lil rich… lean IS NOT MEAN… its just don’t be toooo fat! Theres virtually no pwer gain between fat and lean…how do I know…its called playing on a dyno for hours with hot key gen 7… .and we went from lean to fat …time and time again…at same rpm…to find neglebable gain… this isnt a lawn mower that increases prm and hp by pinching it lean.
Bottom line, timing is where the power is… hence why V-Tec was so sucessful… if you set the timing right, for desired octane, without know…and enough gas …and drive well…and thats what the car can do… unless you need a clutch…err…well…does travis still need a clutch…or is that a sore subject.
I don’t adjust AFR even on race gas which I CAN run leaner because there’s virtually no gain for me. I’d rather stay MID/LOW 11s and give up some power than breaking shit. On the dyno, I’d see like 10-20AWHP max with 1AFR swings. Boost/Timing was major gains though.
