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OEM White? Do you have any oil usage? I tossed Castrol 5w40 in the wagon… It’s been about 2k km, I’m going to check for usage. I was using Amsoil 5w30 and had 0 usage (OEM Filter)
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OEM White? Do you have any oil usage? I tossed Castrol 5w40 in the wagon… It’s been about 2k km, I’m going to check for usage. I was using Amsoil 5w30 and had 0 usage (OEM Filter)
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/180SX_SR20DET.pdf
2nd page specifies 7.5w30
i use synthetic 5w30 because the sr engine is relativly high revving and turbocharged…no conventional here
RP 10 w 30, only use 10 w 30 its what engine was built for,
Can some one explain oil weights and what they mean.
Bullshit! You don’t even know why that’s a load of bullshit eithier.
Oil is incredibly complicated, and nailing down the best oil for the situation can take some trial and error. A simplified and very basic explanation of oil weights would be this: the first number is the weight the oil is at cold cranking temperatures, e.g 5W. The second number is the weight at operating temperature, e.g 30. That’s why the above quote is a load of bullshit. Ow30, 5w30, and 10w30 are all a 30 weight oil at operating temperature. There’s no difference. So if someone says 0w30 and 5w30 are too light, but 10w30 isn’t; that person has no idea what they’re talking about.
Now you may be wondering why would you run a 0w, or a 5w, over a 10w. The reason being that all oils are too thick at startup. The most damage is done during cold starts when the oil is too thick, so it isn’t flowing as well, thus not lubricating as efficiently. A thicker oil will create higher oil pressure, because it takes more pressure to move a thicker oil, hence the thicker oil not flowing as well as a lighter oil. A 10w also takes longer to warm up to operating temperature where the oil becomes a 30 weight. Now a 0 is still too thick at startup, but it flows the best because it doesn’t require as much oil pressure to push it. It warms up quicker, and lubricates better sooner than a thicker oil. Ideally you want to do as little startup damage as possible, so you want to run the thinnest cold cranking weight possible for your application.
That’s very simplified. It’s far far more complex, but that’s a basic idea of things when it comes to oil weights. That’s why I run 0w30. It’s the exact same grade at operating temperature as 10w30, except it does less start cold start damage, and flows better at colder temperatures than 10w30. Most high end manufactures run a cold cranking weight of 0w in their cars. Look at AMS’ Aston Martin oil change. No 10w30 there, it’s a 0w oil. BMW’s inline six engines? 0w30. There’s a very good reason why newer high end cars are running this oil, and it has to do with what I said.