Lookin Good MPH
Always a problem with you. lol Quit breaking stuff.
You had a great idea several posts ago. Put a T56 in it.
Ugh that would require another few months of work for me that i cant bear with right now. The car will never see the road if i try that now 
I’m considering it over winter/fall but for now i wanted auto
If its not one thing, its another
Teh car now has alot of noise coming from under the valve cover/intake it seems. SOunds like lifter tapping and it didnt do that before. I’m pissed. I’m gonna change the oil out tomorrow and make sure its got full 6 quarts and see if i cant get that lifter pumped up. Else i gotta rip it all apart again
I’ll never get this thing on the road 
It’s a weekend project at best. Especially in a 3rd Gen Fbucket. Almost a bolt in affair.
I guess you have other troubles now, though with your above post.
a T56 isnt quite bolt on. it would require me to buy a whole new trans crossmember and torque arm. I already built my exhaust around my existing crossmember so if i changed the crossmember now i’d have to redo the exhaust else it would look stupid. A t56 crossmember tho would give me more clearance i think so thats a positive
Plus the pedal mounts would have to be cut in and i’m not sure how hard that is. new master cylinder and such perhaps? I’m upgrading the front brakes so i’m sure that wouldnt be a bad idea anyway
Just a pain in the ass at the moment. Something i dont wanna do now.
I plan to put in a tubular kmember/A arm setup over winter so the motor will be out, that will be the time to do the trans swap
If my trans is toast at the moment, then i think i’d buy a richmond 5 spd direct drop in trans for thirdgens. at 3 grand its twice as much as a T56 and doesnt have the gear ratios but its a direct bolt in and brand new so no worries about worn gears/synchros/whatever/etc. That way i can keep stock everything just need new 5sp camaro pedals and clutch stuff. Its only good to 650lb ft torque i hear and i’m not sure how much i’ll have once i spray this car
Cliffs: possibly T56 over winter as the car is still in drag phase with auto trans for now. Will not be a drag car anymore…more pro touring road race now with the rims and brakes i’ll have on in a week or two
Crossmember = bolt in
Torque Arm = bolt in
pedals = bolt in (I believe the knockout is in your firewall already - 4th gen pedals will work, new master/slave cyl setup new from GM is about $85 & is assembled, bled & ready to install)
LT1 T56 clutch/flywheel/bellhousing/T-O bearing/trans = bolt in
You may need to modify the console for the shifter, and your exhaust as you say to clear the x-member.
There is very little fabrication for this swap. You could do it for alot less than the $3k+ you will spend on the richmond. The T56 is a far better street transmission than the Richmond 5spd, plus no overdrive with the Richmond (5th is 1:1, 1st is very deep - 2.90:1 or deeper). You need to get a Richmond 6 speed to get O/D. Depending on your rear gears that may be a +/-.
i agree with sixspeed454ss the Richmond is junk go with the t56, its an easy install and a far better trany for less money. it was by far the best 1800 i spent on my car
The T56 is a far better street transmission than the Richmond 5spd, plus no overdrive with the Richmond (5th is 1:1, 1st is very deep - 2.90:1 or deeper). You need to get a Richmond 6 speed to get O/D. Depending on your rear gears that may be a +/-.
teh one i looked at was .74 5th gear and is brand new compared to some used T56.
Technically it is “bolt-in” parts but still, a long swap that i really dont wanna go thru right now. Yes i have the money but i work very slow on this car. Things take me longer than others, not sure why. Just the way i am…and thinks usually go wrong for me…just like how i’m having all these problems right now 
Oh well, like i said, i want to go auto for now to see how this car runs. I just want to get it on the road and enjoy it finally for the first time. Then over winter i’ll do some major mods. I’m thinking tubular k member and a-arms, new interior, 12 bolt rear if i dont get that in a few months, and some other minor things im sure.
The car is getting away from the drag scene and more of a street warrior/roadrace/protouring look with big brakes/big wheels/ fat rubber, etc. I plan to make it nice and show it when i get a chance.
I’ll still drag race it and it will still run like a raped ape i’m sure, its just that it wont be on the typical skinnies up front. For now the rear welds will work but i think i may go to C5 rears if i go C5 or C6 style fronts. That will get rid of my slicks skinnies which sucks but oh well, like i said i’m getting away from that game
Took it out today. Had a loose rocker arm nut so i tightened that up and the tick went away. Changed oil and let it warm up. Took it for a quick drive
Couple of things i like. the tranny started to work right again. For awhile i had no overdrive and it felt like the trans was slipping. AFter alittle driving it finally woke up and i gained overdrive once again. I hammered on it and the tires definately spun this time so the trans is finally grabbing. Not sure why it didnt work before
My base tune added about 23% more fuel than stock L98. I knew it was gonan be on the lean side. Air Fuel was reading near 17. So i added 10 % more and it moved to about 16-16.3 ish. SO i have to add a ton more fuel. I made a new chip for another 27% fuel, bringing it a total of 58% more fuel Havent tested it but we’ll see later on today or this weekend. Car is nasty tho, shame the exhaust has to hang abit low…kinda limits where i can drive and how fast i can go on the back roads
I sure hope you have polylocks on it. If not, get some.
i did and it still got loose somehow. I tightened it up good now. hopefully it dont happen again
Still working on idle tune. Cant get it perfect and nothing i do seems to change my conditions so far. Its idling ok enough to drive and such but there are a few problem spots that concern me enough that i want to fix before i do much else. worked on it today and nothing helped really. Oh well its all fun
did some WOT tuning yesterday on teh street. Got air fuel down from 16’s to about 13 to 1. I’m probly gonna leave it at that till i get on the dyno to dial in all rpms. I think its doing 12.5-13.5 from 4000-5500. I havent beable to take it over 5500 but the car doesnt feel as fast as i thought it would so far. So i’ll have to find out on the dyno what the numbers are and fix my air intake setup cuz i believe its hurting this motor badly
Also decided to do T56 swap either later this year or this winter for sure as i hate my exhaust clearance so far. And T56 with crossmember will allow me to really clean up the clearance
I’m glad you decided to do T56 swap
Eh i always wanted a manual…i guess now is the time… well not now but sometime in the near future
It prolly came loose because your cam has way more lift than your original setup. I built a big block 2 years ago & had the stock rockers come loose twice while test driving the truck (2 different cylinders within about 100 miles of each other). The cam was a mild cam, but the stock rocker nuts found a way to come loose. I put polylocks on it & never had a problem. It’s cheap insurance (especially with your setup - soo much work to take the intake off, if a pushrod falls out of position). It could cause damage as well. I think polylocks are about $35-45 for a set.
i’m using different rockers than i had before tho. I had comp magnums last year and sold them for the beefier comp pro magnums. They are the best choice for these big lift cams and heavy spring pressure.
They are nice rockers and i’m just surprised the one came loose like that but it happens…its a brand new motor, i expect to retorque things
You shouldn’t have to re torque the rockers in a new motor (if adjustable rockers, you may need to re adjust after a bunch of miles, especially if a solid flat tappet cam). My motor has 25-30k on it & I’ve never had the valvecovers off of it (actually as I type this I realize I did once when I had the intake powdercoated - never touched the rockers).
Are they torque to a specific ft lbs? This is not normal on a Gen 1 style SBC.
Most (almost all) chevy motors have lash-adjustable valvetrain (Mark V big blocks do not, but need converted when adding a higher lift cam). If you have to adjust the lash, you will have problems with them loosening again. Do yourself a favor & spend the few $$ on polylocks.
no they dont need torqued, i just said that because i expect to re tighten things after a few heat cycles but yes, i dont expect rocker arms to come loose like that reguardless of what nut is on them.
And i already said i have poly locks. they come with the rocker arms
Oh, I didn’t see that.