pain in the ass. No spark. still

I am seriously stumped. my engine will still not fire.

After originally thinking it was the coil, it still has no spark.
I have also checked the distributor, modual under the rotor, and tried completeing the ground, running straight from the battery.

Now Im thinking, what sensors or anything that would make the eccs cut the signal to juice the coil. anything.
seems a bit weird though since I still get fuel pressure.

basically any system that interferes with ignition post what you know. more ideas=better

and I would like any help in person that has dealt with similar issues, or knows the 240’s electrical well.

thanks, wanta solve this before the cruise wasaga

background info missing

did this happen all of a sudden?
did you try to swap something onto the car and it wouldn’t start?
were you working on the car and afterwards it wouldn’t start?
was this ever an automatic car?

maybe the ignition module , what motor is this.

have u check the crack sensor yet?

try scanning the car see if u get any codes.

see if the positive side of the coil has voltage. if there isnt its a problem with the ignition wiring cercuit, if there is then look at stuff like your ignition module, crank sensor

a quick way to find out abou tthe crank is if the tack needle bounces when u crank, if it doesnt then it may be ur crank sensor.

My thread was more detailed :slight_smile:
coil has voltage
it cranks
we tried switching the module which is in the distributor
we tried switching the distributor
we tried switching the coil
it happened all of a sudden
no spark

try something simple maybe its ur spark plugs make sure there spaced well or it could even be ur sparke plug wires sometimes its the simple stuff try that

i mean no spark as in there’s no spark jumping from coil to the block or anything

Coolant temperature sensor, quite possibly. Car will not run if the ECU considers it a problem IIRC.

Happened to me - one day the car would just crank healthily over and over but never fire at all. Took a week to find the problem, but when we did the car ran perfectly right after it was replaced.

Perhaps try inspecting it and making sure the electrical connections are clean and intact.

Good luck.

thanks, it could be the coolant temp sensor, as my gauge does not read at all, but then I think that my cluster got damaged anyway.
jackal would you know if the pressure regulator control solenoid valve would prevend start, located between the firewall and the valve cover of the ka. one of the wires broke right at the connector. I’ll fix it regardless.

Im also thinking I could have damaged my eccs. a part of the harness rubbed on acc pulleys and shorted yellow/red stripe wire with a black(grnd), this wire runs from pin 3 on the eccs to the reisitor/condenser then the coil.
but I don’t know how to tell if the eccs is damaged, I attemped to run the built in diagnostic mode, but got no feedback from the LEDs.

has anyone used diagnostic mode on their 240? when do the leds flash?

when the sun comes up im going to swap parts and see whats good

thanks for all the replies

did u find out whats wrong yet.

yup
tho I swaped the temp sensor, I think it was the eccs that was damaged.
having all the wiring diagrams really helped though.
thanks again to everybody’s for your input

at idle tho, maybe its just due to oil starvation do to lack running but, there was lots of valve tick, or just ticking

anyone had to adjust distributor position(timing) after swaping their ecu?