Starting Problem

ok, its a weird problem… its a 90 KA24E and the problem only happens when the motor is already warm (i.e. if i drive somewhere, shut it off hot, and start it back up 10-20 min later). It seems to hesitate to start, sometimes i’ve had to play with the throttle to get it going… I’ve checked my plugs, put on NKG wires, cleaned the distributor, all fluids are new. changed the fuel pump, had the throttle body cleaned with a fuel system cleaning. i have no idea as too what it is…the air filters clean and all, oil levels are good… could it be a sensor? pump? injectors? or injector seals?fuel pump?

Sometimes once i get it going, i have to hold the throttle until it kicks in. it stays at 2000 RPM and bog’s kind of, sounds like a fukin dirtbike. Once it gets going, for the first .5 km when i shift it bogs and struggles…

I have no idea… maybe someone has run into this…

Thanks…

No start when hot is typically a sign of an ignition coil on its way out.

The sputtering and not wanting to run points me in that direction too.

Check your spark, if it’s not blue or white (orange) probably time for a coil

ok, how do I check the spark?

Ok, it’s a two person job.

Well, you could do it by yourself, but you’d need a really long spark plug wire.

unhook the coil wire from the distributor.

push back the boot enough to expose the metal lead.

Hold the coil wire by the wire (the shielded part) and as someone cranks the car, bring it closer and closer a good ground (any bolt/nut in the engine bay will usually do) Because of where the coil is in the 240, I would use one of the strut tower bolts.

Make sure you aren’t touching the lead … a lot of voltage comes through there.

You should get a blue or white spark that will easily arc across 2 or 3 cm.

If you have to hold the lead really close, or the spark itself is red/orange, change the coil.

Yep, Highly appreciated… It was a flame colored spark… Now to buy a new or used one?

Well, good used ones, unless you have a way to test it … hard to come by.

It would probably be cheaper to upgrade to a Blaster SS coil.

It’s an easy install, small modification needed. I can link you to a how to if you need it.

The S12 uses the same ignition setup, except we have two coils. (install with pics is on an S12, so you only have to do one coil)

Nissan typically wants way too much money for a stock coil.

O.E.M was like 130 plus tax…
Send me the how to, I was got a good price on a 6AL MSD and blaster coil… Any info is appreciated.

Hey man.

I’ve used the MSD 6A before and it made a little difference. The only difference between the one I had and the one you mentioned is a Rev Limiter. I have’nt used the Blaster Coil but Im sure it would only make the whole thing work better.

Easy 8)

ive got an oem coil for you

$40

i 100% guarantee it is ure fuel pump…
get one from a ka24de…it does wonders to a sohc motor…

Ill call you this afternoon Varun.

I’d think the fuel pump would be more noticeable during WOT or crusing rather than hot start …

But then again you guys know KAs better.

As for fuel pumps, Carter sells a really nice upgrade for the S13 that will give you more fuel than you’ll ever need. I think it’s a 300lph with a 75 psi shut off.

It’s just over $100 new too.

here’s that link

http://www.club-s12.org/main/FAQ/ca18mods/coil/MSD%20Blaster%20SS%20Ignition%20Coil%20Install[1].htm