who here has used it on “seasoned” bare metal? my hondas both have the beginning stages of honda rot, well the accord is a bit worse than the civic. im planning on doing the civic first, and am wondering if anyone has any tips or hints.
ive read that all you really need to do is hit it with a wire brush to get all of the loose rust off, clean it, metal ready, and por 15. then you can filler over that if needed, and re-paint.
anyone have any advice or stories to share? thanks
por 15 sucks.
get chassis saver from magnet paint.
youre going to want to get the scale off, but not over clean the area, the paint bonds to a rougher surface, they reccomend using 50 grit on brand new metal before using that type of product.
you deffinatly want to top coat chassis saver to keep it protected from UV. Por 15 once dry is very slippery, nothing really wants to stick properly too it.
Call some paint people most will tell you por 15 is over priced and dosent work as good as it should.
yeah, good suggestion but cutting, welding, filler, and painting a $300 shell really isnt what im going for here…
i would rather just fly down to JAX, have dinner with my parents, pet my dog, buy a new fresh EG and drive it back. for now i want to do this shit on zee cheap!!
We’ve used the metal ready at work for warranty rust jobs prior to paint. Don’t expect it to be a miracle worker; grind down as much as you can then use metal ready to get at the little pock marks that are left. then por15 or chassis saver over top.
I’ve used POR15 before and it worked really well. Stopped a spot of wheel well cancer about the size of two half dollars on my wife’s old Mazda.
Get the loose shit off but leave the surface rust. The trick is to apply the rust destroyer stuff at least three times without letting it dry/cure in between coats. It will stop/destroy the rust, but keep in mind that any spot you miss will just continue to rust so be thorough with getting under/behind the wheel wells. But all in all it’s easy to use and gives great results without a lot of effort.
K&S had some three bottle kit of solvent, rust destroyer, and primer that I used.
I tried por 15 on some quarter rust before and didn’t have success with it.
por15 on the front clip of my truck…wire wheel down to bare metal. didnt put metal ready on, just spraycan primer. still looks like this after. the rest of the frame i didnt even wire brush or anything, just por15 over the bare frame. truck was from south so it had some surface rust on frame but no scale. the rest of the frame i did a few years back and NONE of it had any prep at all, and none of it has come through the por15.
the people that have issues with por15 are the ones that usually dont put enough coats on or in the right temperature. i have also used this on daily drivers and have not had any issues.
as for bodywork and paint over the por15, dont know how i feel about that one. i think i would rather use some type of etch primer and keep the por15 on the back or underside, followed by undercoating. thats what i did on my car and it seems to be ok.
no topcoat over this, regular por15 has alot of gloss and comes out smooth even when brushed on:
I have used it, it works marginally well at best, dont get the shit on your hands or you WILL wear it for like a week
Nikuk did a pretty nice write up on different rust destroyers a while back. I think naval jelly was his favorite. :cjerk:
I hear from people that they either have GREAT success with POR15 or that it was a COMPLETE waste of time, no inbetween. I used it and had great results. Someone on the Ur-Q boards had GREAT success with it and he applied it to a 4 season car after it had seen a ton of 4 seasons
Prep is key with POR. I’ve used it for a while with great results.